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Build, text and photos by Mike Mavrigian
Note: This engine, as well as all of our engine projects, is designed, test-fit and assembled by Mike Mavrigian’s Birchwood Automotive facility in Creston, OH.
Now that the block, oil pan, valley cover
plate and timing cover have been painted,
we can begin final assembly.
Regardless of how clean you think the block may be, don’t assume anything. Take the time to perform one final block wash/rinse/dry. Once the block is clean, immediately apply a thin coat of oil to the cylinder walls to prevent surface rusting (apply clean engine oil to a clean, lint-free paper towel and wipe each bore).
FIT THE RINGS
If you haven’t already done so, test-fit all piston rings to the cylinders. In this build, I file-fit the top and second rings to each bore.
Dedicate and organize all rings packages per piston/per cylinder location on your workbench. Because each cylinder bore may have slight deviations as the result of honing (possibly as much as 0.0005 – 0.001”), don’t assume that al ring gaps will be identical if you use only one bore as the measuring reference. File-fit each piston’s top and second ring for each specific cylinder location, and keep the rings organized on a per-cylinder-location basis.
One by one, insert a top ring into its intended cylinder and measure the end gap. The ring should be inserted about ½” below deck, and the ring must be square in the bore (not cocked or twisted). Using my Summit ring squaring tool this task is easy. Simply adjust the tool to the cylinder bore diameter and tighten the locking knob. Insert the ring into the bore by hand, just below the deck. Insert the squaring tool into the bore, pushing the ring down until the tool rests on the block deck. Remove the squaring tool. The ring is now positioned evenly in its bore. Using a feeler gauge, carefully measure the ring end gap (be careful not to disturb the ring in the process). For this particular build, top ring end gap should be 0.019”, and second-ring end gap should be 0.021” (JE recommends 0.0045” x bore diameter for the top rings, and 0.0050” x bore diameter for the second ring, for a non-nitrous/non-blown street engine. If you opt to super/turbocharge, the ends gaps will need to be a tad larger (0.0050” x bore top and 0.0055” x bore second). In all cases, JE calls for a minimum end gap for the oil rails at 0.015”.
Upon initial checking in my 4.211” bores, the ends for the top and second rings butted together (zero gap), so I file-fit each top and second ring. My oil ring rails checked out at 0.017”.
Using a ring filer (I use a bench-mounted Summit ring filer), carefully file each end of the ring, filing an equal amount from each end. Also make sure that the filing is done squarely (to avoid creating a tapered gap). But don’t get too carried away. File just a bit, clean the ring and re-check the end gap. It’s better to file several times in small increments in order to creep-up on the desired gap, rather than file too much initially and create a too-large end gap (in which case you’ll need to replace the ring). Once a ring has been filed for proper end gap, use a small, flat fine file to carefully remove all sharp edges/burrs on the filed ends. Be sure to thoroughly clean the filed ring to remove all traces of metal particles before inserting the ring into the cylinder!
Once all rings have been finalized with proper end gap, keep them organized on your workbench, in cylinder-location order.
It’s a good idea to first lay clean paper towels on the workbench and label for cylinder location (CYL 1, CYL 2, etc.). Then keep all pistons/rods/bearing/pins, rings/locks organized accordingly.
NOTE: If your pistons include support rings (to be installed on the base of the oil ring groove), there is no need to file-fit these support rings. They will already feature a very healthy end gap when installed to the pistons. The installed end gap of a support rail has no effect whatsoever on oil or pressure control. The only purpose of the support rings is to provide a “floor” for the oil ring package, when needed due to the height location of the piston pin bore.
INSTALL THE OIL CONTROL PLUG AT THE REAR OF THE BLOCK
This is important! Before you get carried away, you must remember to install the 3/8” NPT plug into the rear of the block, in-line and forward of the distributor hole. The plug should feature a small oil weep hole (I drilled my plug with a 0.020” drill). This will provide a bit of weep-lube to the distributor gear. This plug must be installed before installing the distributor, so do this now before you forget. Once this forward plug is installed, install another 3/8” NPT plug to the rear passage (behind the distributor).
This 3/8″ NPT plug is installed immediately forward of the distributor bore. A 0.020″ bleed hole was drilled through the plug to provide wee-oil to the distributor.
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View from bottom of block. Note the 3/8″ NPT plug installed with teflon thread sealant.
INSTALL THE CAMSHAFT
Installing the camshaft is more easily handled prior to crankshaft installation (with the block upside-down, you have visual and hand access to the cam as it enters each cam bearing bore).
Once you verify that the camshaft is absolutely clean, carefully coat all lobes, journals and distributor drive gear with a quality high-pressure assembly lube (it’s always best to use the assembly lube that was included with your cam).
Carefully slide the camshaft into the cam bearing bores, paying strict attention to avoid nicking/scratching any of the cam bearings with the cam lobes. I used a Trick Flow camshaft installation handle. This provides a secure grip and the necessary leverage to better control the camshaft angle during insertion.
Once the cam has been fully inserted, rotate the camshaft to once again verify smooth operation.
Our Comp Cams hydraulic roller. This steel bumpstick features valve lift of 0.520″ intake and 0.540″ exhaust, duration (@0.050″) of 236/242, and LSA of 110 degrees. Refer to Part 3 of this series for photos showing camshaft installation.
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Once the camshaft has been installed, the retaining plate (with oil groove facing the block) is secured with two bolts. Apply thread locker to the bolt threads and tighten to 20 ft-lb.
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I installed a timing set from Melling Performance, featuring a heavy duty double roller chain.
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If you don’t plan to use a mechanical fuel pump eccentric, install a spacer to the front of the cam sprocket before installing the cam sprocket bolt.
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The cam sprocket is secured with an ARP cam gear bolt and washer. The bolt threads were treated with a medium thread locking compound from Valco, and the bolt was tightened to 40 ft-lb. By the way, during previous test fitting, I checked cam endplay (fore/aft movement of the cam as installed) at 0.005″.
CONTINUE ASSEMBLY
Instead of using the original style rope-type rear main seal, I opted for an improved Viton 2-piece main seal (I purchased this from Kaufman Racing, but this is also available from Victor as P/N JV-600, or BOP P/N RMS02). One seal-half was installed to the block, cocked so that 3/8” of one end of the seal protrudes beyond the block’s cap surface, and the other seal-half was installed to the rear main cap with the opposing end protruding 3/8” beyond the cap mating surface (during cap installation, the two seal halves slightly slide together at the ends). Once the crank is installed, apply a small dab of RTV to each exposed seal end prior to cap installation.
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The 455 crankshaft is a hefty piece of steel, so make sure that you’re upper body strength is up to the task before trying to install. If you have a buddy handy, take advantage of some help. You don’t want to risk nicking the crank at this point. Ohio Crankshaft did a marvelous job producing this forged steel stroker. The journals are polished to a mirror-like finish. It would be a shame to ding it.
The upper main bearings were carefully installed into their respective saddles (making certain that the saddles and bearings are absolutely clean and free of oil).
Once the crankshaft has been final-cleaned (rifle-brushing all oil passages, solvent-cleaning, rinsing and blow-air drying), the upper main bearing faces were coated with Royal Purple Max Tuff assembly lubes (including thrust bearing surfaces). The crank was gently lowered onto the upper main bearings. This is a heavy crank, to be sure to east your Wheaties beforehand). Use extreme care to avoid nicking the main journals.
Do not rotate the crank at this point, to avoid moving the upper bearings.
Make sure that the lower bearings and main caps are clean and dry. Install the lower bearings onto their respective main caps. Apply a coat of Royal Purple max Tuff assembly lube to all exposed bearing faces. Do not apply any lube to the cap mating surfaces on either the block or caps.
With the rear main cap already fitted with its Viton seal, apply a small dab of RTV to the exposed ends of the upper and lower rear main seals and install the cap. Tap the rear cap with a plastic hammer to make sure that it’s fully seated.
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All main bearings were kept organized, in order of location, from initial test fitting to final assembly.
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The thrust bearing is located at number 4 main position. When lubricating the thrust bearings, be sure to also apply lube to the front and rear thrust faces.
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The ARP main stud kit features 1/2″ diameter studs for caps 1 through 4, and 9/16″ studs for cap #5. Install studs hand-tight to the block. Apply ARP moly assembly lube to the lower (fine thread) threads, as well as to washers, nuts and underside of nuts. I torqued main cap nuts to 100 ft-lbs on caps 1-4, and 120 ft-lbs on cap #5.
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Apply ARP moly to the lower (fine) threads of each stud, and to the washers and underside of the nuts.
Install the main cap fasteners (in this build, I’m using ARP main studs). I snugged each stud to 60 in-lbs (just beyond hand-tight). Using a plastic hammer, tap each main cap to assure full seating. With the exposed stud threads coated with ARP moly lube (as well as washers and nuts), install the washers and nuts finger-tight. Remember that caps 1-4 feature ½”-diameter threads, while cap #5 features 9/16”-diameter threads.
Using a calibrated torque wrench, tighten all main cap nuts in steps, following the proper sequence.
Once all five main cap fasteners have been tightened to 15 ft-lbs, you may rotate the crankshaft. Once all caps have been snugged to 10 ft-lbs, I like to slightly rotate the crank after each successive tightening, to verify smooth rotation.
MAIN CAP TORQUE SPECS
CAPS 1, 2, 3 AND 4…….10 ft-lbs, followed by 40 ft-lbs, final-tightening to 100 ft-lbs.
CAP 5……………………10 ft-lbs, followed by 40 ft-lbs, final-tightening to 120 ft-lbs.
TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
CAP 3, LEFT, INBOARD
CAP 3, RIGHT, INBOARD
CAP 2, LEFT, INBOARD
CAP 2, RIGHT, INBOARD
CAP 4, LEFT, INBOARD
CAP 4, RIGHT, INBOARD
CAP 1, LEFT
CAP 1, RIGHT
CAP 5, LEFT
CAP 5, RIGHT
CAP 3, LEFT, OUTBOARD
CAP 3, RIGHT, OUTBOARD
CAP 2, LEFT, OUTBOARD
CAP 2, RIGHT, OUTBOARD
CAP 4, LEFT, OUTBOARD
CAP 4, RIGHT, OUTBOARD
Once all main cap fasteners have been fully tightened, rotate the crankshaft to verify smooth operation. Even though thrust was checked during the earlier test-fitting, re-check crank thrust using a dial indicator.
ASSEMBLE PISTONS AND RODS
Make sure that all pistons, connecting rods, piston pins, rings and pin locks are absolutely clean. On a clean workbench, organize each cylinder’s package (piston, rod, rod bearings, piston pin, rings and pin locks).
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Pistons, rods, rings, bearings, pins and pin locks organized on my Lista workbench. At this point, every component (every piston, rod, ring, pin, bearing and lock) should be absolutely clean and ready for assembly. The piston ring compressor should also have been cleaned as well. When it comes to assembly, there’s no such thing as “too clean.”
Our JE pistons feature double spiral locks (two spiral locks per each end of the pin). Begin by installing locks on one side of the piston pin bore. Spiral locks feature a spring tension. Using your fingernails, spread the first spiral lock apart by about 3/8”. Insert one end of the lock into the lock groove. While maintaining slight pressure (keeping the end of the lock in its groove), spread the lock further apart so that its circumference isn’t trapped over the upper and lower edges of the pin bore entry. Using a small flat-blade screwdriver, apply pressure to the lock as you sweep in a counterclockwise motion, engaging the lock into the lock groove. When the trailing end of the lock enters the groove, it will snap into place. This will take some practice, but once you get the hang of it, you’ll find that installation is fairly easy.
Once the first lock is in place, use a small screwdriver to gently push the first lock fully into the groove inboard shoulder, providing room for the following lock. Install the second lock in the same manner as before.
Once both locks have been installed in one side of the pin bore, lube a pin (I use Royal Purple Max Tuff) and insert the pin into the opposite side of the piston pin bore. Lube the connecting rod small end bore and place the small end between the piston pin bosses, orienting the rod to the piston (remember that the valve reliefs must face inboard when installed to the cylinder. When viewing the piston and rod from above (as installed), the chamfered side of the connecting rod big end must face to the right on each piston/rod assembly. Make sure that you pay attention to orient the rod to the piston properly.
Slide the piston pin through the rod pin bore and into the opposite piston pin bore, placing the pin up against the previously-installed spiral locks.
Install the remaining two spiral locks.
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In order to remove caps from rods, always use a clean rod vise. My GearHead Tools rod vise is mounted to my Lista workbench. Using a rod vise provides a sturdy grip on the rod and prevents rod damage when tightening or loosening rod bolts.
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In order to disengage the cap from the rod (re dowels), instead of smacking the rod bolt heads with a hammer, I use a GearHead Tools rod cap splitter tool. This smoothly draws the cap from the rod. As the handle is turned, the aluminum inserts spread apart.
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Having the right tools makes rod service easy and prevents accidental damage to the rod.
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Preparing to assembly No. 1 cylinder’s rod and piston.
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Note the location of the pin bore on this JE piston. Due to our required compression distance, the pin bore encroaches into the oil ring groove land. This requires the use of a support rail to provide even “floor” contact for the oil ring package. Note the lock ring groove machined into the pin bore. These pistons require the use of double spiral locks (two locks per side of each pin).
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Spiral locks are tension-steel flat-wound clips.
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Before attempting installation, pull the spiral lock apart gently with your fingernails.
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With the spiral lock slightly “unwound,” insert one end into the piston’s pin bore lock groove.
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While keeping the spiral lock gently pulled apart (spread), begin to walk the lock in a counterclockwise direction into the groove. Keep the free end pulled out a bit to prevent it from hanging up on the pin boss edges.
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Carefully walk the lock into the groove using a small (clean) flat-blade screwdriver.
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Once the remaining end of the lock engages into the groove, it’ll snap into place. Once the first lock is fully engaged into the groove, press downward to seat the entire lock circumference against the base of the groove, to provide space for the second lock.
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This view shows both spiral locks installed on one end of the pin bore.
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Once one end of the pin bore has been fitted with double spiral locks, lube the piston wrist pin (here I’m using Royal Purple Max Tuff assembly lube).
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Insert the lubed wrist pin into the opposite end of the pin bore, leaving enough space for connecting rod small-end insertion.
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Align the pin with the rod and carefully engage the pin and slide through the rod small end bore, fully seating the pin against the previously-installed spiral locks. Rotate the rod on the pin and slide it gently side to side to verify smooth movement.
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Install the remaining two spiral locks into the pin bore groove. Re-inspect both ends of the pin to verify that the spiral locks are fully seated.
INSTALL THE RINGS
Since our pistons feature a pin bore that opens slightly into the bottom oil ring land area, a support ring is required at the base of the oil ring package (when pistons are purchased that feature a compression distance that results in the pin bore located high enough to encroach into this area, support rings will be supplied with the pistons).
Install the support ring to the oil ring groove. The support rail features a small male dimple. This dimple MUST align with the pin bore opening in the floor of the oil groove, with the dimple facing downward. This prevents the support rail from walking (the male bump serves as a stopper, preventing the rail from rotating). Once the rail is installed, push the entire rail down so that it sits flush onto the floor of the oil groove land.
Next, install the oil expander ring. Make sure that the ends of the expander are flush together with no overlap.
Next, install the lower oil rail. Again, while installing the lower oil rail, pay attention and make sure that the expander ring ends remain butted together flush with no overlap. Once the lower oil rail is installed, this will maintain the expander ring’s condition. Next install the upper oil ring rail. Rotate the oil ring rails so that their end gaps are apart by about 100 degrees or so (don’t let the end gaps align).
Next install the second (oil control) ring, using ring pliers. The second ring features a small female dimple, which must face upwards.
Next install the top (compression) ring. This also features a small dimple, which must face upwards. Rotate the top and second rings with their end gaps spaced about 100 to 160 degrees apart (preventing them from aligning. If the ring supplier provides end gap locations (relative to the piston circumference), follow those specs. In reality, the rings will likely rotate a bit during engine operation, but you want to make sure that the end gaps are far enough apart (top ring gap to second ring gap) to insure that they won’t align.
The support rail features a small male “bump”. This must face downward, centered in the pin bore opening.
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Here the support rail has been installed. Notice that the male protrusion faces downward and is centered in the opening at the base of the ring groove. This prevents the support rail from rotating out of position.
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Once the support rail is installed, push it down against the floor of the oil ring land along its entire perimeter, to provide room for the oil ring package.
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Install the expander ring with the ends butted. Do not allow the ends to overlap. As you install the lower oil ring rail, be sure to maintain the expander ring’s position to prevent the ends from overlapping.
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Both the second ring and top ring features a female dimple. The rings must be installed with this dimple facing upwards. Installing a ring upside down will result in ring twist and sealing performance. Use piston ring pliers to install second and top rings, but be careful not to over-spread the rings. Do not attempt to install second or top rings with your fingers, as they can easily break or distort. Always use ring spreader/pliers.
INSTALL PISTONS/RODS
CLEAN each cylinder with several lint-free paper towels dampened with a light solvent until the towel is clean, showing no residue whatsoever. Then apply a coating of fresh engine oil to the cylinder walls (using a clean hand, spread/smear the oil to obtain full coverage on the cylinder walls).
Clean the connecting rod saddles and caps using a lint free paper towel and solvent, removing any oils or other contaminants.
Inspect each rod bearing for cleanliness as well, and clean as needed. The bearings must be installed dry to the rod and cap.
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Pistons and rods assembled with rings installed. Ready for bearing installation.
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Re-clean each rod saddle and cap saddle. Saddles and bearings must be clean and dry.
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Rod bearings are dedicated for upper/lower positions. Pay attention to this. This rod bearing shell is clearly stamped “LOWER,” which means that it’s intended for the rod cap location.
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This rod bearing shell is labeled for “UPPER” position, which means that it’s intended for the rod saddle.
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Apply lubricant to the face of the upper and lower bearing. Make sure that the bearing is fully seated onto the saddle to prevent lubricant from entering the backside of the bearing.
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Carefully smear the lube onto the entire face of the bearing. Also apply lube to each side of the rod big end (rod and cap) (where rods will face each other and where rod big ends will face the crank fillets).
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Install the upper rod bearing to the connecting rod saddle, and the lower rod bearing to the rod cap. Pay attention: each rod bearing shell is stamped on the backside for location (UPPER or LOWER). Make sure that each rod bearing shell snaps into place with the registering tang engaged in the saddle and cap tang slot. Make sure that each bearing shell is fully seated.
Apply lubricant to the exposed bearing faces. I use Royal Purple Max Tuff assembly lube (it’s nice and sticky and it’s super-slippery).
Apply clean engine oil to the entire ring package and piston skirts.
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With ring end gaps positioned properly and the ring package and piston skirts oiled, insert the rod and piston into a ring compressor. here I’m using an adjustable billet tapered compressor from Summit Racing. The tapered inside walls serve to compress the ring package as the piston is pushed through the tool.
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With the rod and piston skirt bottom inserted into the cylinder, orient the piston for proper location (valve reliefs facing inboard in the block), and pay careful attention to the rod big end to prevent it from contacting the crank as the package is pushed into the bore. While pushing the piston into the bore, maintain hand pressure on the compressor tool to keep it flush against the block deck, to prevent a ring from popping out before it enters the bore.
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If you need assistance to insert the piston/rings into the bore, tap the piston with a clean plastic hammer. This specialty piston hammer from Goodson features an extended head which allows you to maintain easy contact with the piston as it travels down the cylinder. This is a simple, yet innovative idea, typical of the specialty tools offered by Goodson.
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This view clearly illustrates how the deep reach of Goodson’s piston hammer makes this job easier. No need to use the end of the hammer grip to nudge the piston along its way.
Insert the assembled piston/rod into an appropriately-sized piston ring compressor. I use adjustable billet compressors from ARP or Summit. These feature a tapered inner wall that eases ring compression and installation.
Rotate the crankshaft to place the rod pin at/near bottom dead center for the cylinder location that you are about to service.
Insert the piston/rod package (with compressor) into the cylinder bore, orienting the package so that the valve reliefs face toward the center of the block.
Push/tap the piston into the cylinder while paying attention to the orientation of the connecting rod (be careful to prevent the rod from hitting a crank counterweight). As you push the piston into the bore, guide the rod big end to clear any obstructions. Once the piston engages the cylinder above the top ring, remove the compressor tool.
Continue to guide the package into the bore until the rod big end bearing contacts the crank rod pin.
Place the rod cap (with bearing) onto the crank’s rod journal, engaging the cap’s dowels into the rod big end.
Apply ARP moly to the rod bolt threads and to the underside of the rod bolt heads. Finger-install the rod bolts. DO NOT tighten the rod bolts to draw the caps onto the rods. Holding the rod with one hand, tap the rod cap (using a clean plastic hammer) to begin cap-to-rod engagement (one good tap should do it).
Then tighten the rod bolts.
Tightening the rod bolts can be done in one of two ways: using the torque-monitoring method or the stretch method (or both).
In this particular build, we’re using Scat’s ARP rod bolts (7/16” x 1.600” ARP 8740).
Scat/ARP specs call for a final torque of 63 ft-lbs, with ARP moly (and not to exceed 0.0050” stretch). Regardless of which method you choose, it’s a good idea to check bolt stretch, which, as already mentioned, is not to exceed 0.0050” with these 7/16” x 1.600” 8740 rod bolts.
Note: I prefer to install opposing pistons/rods (rods that share a common crank rod journal. I tighten the first rod’s bolts to an initial 20 ft-lbs. This provides a cap-to-rod mating that engages the rod bearings and begins to provide bearing crush. Once the other rod is in place on the same journal (and after tightening that rod’s bolts to 20 ft-lbs), I then fully tighten both rods’ bolts. This helps to minimize rod cocking on the journal during tightening (since you have two rods against each other on the journal).
In order to take advantage of the bolt stretch method (which many argue is a much more accurate method of achieving proper clamping force), first place a rod bolt onto a stretch gauge and zero the gauge. Without disturbing the gauge setting, re-check bolt stretch as the rod bolt is tightened (a female dimple on each end of the rod bolt provides gauge anvil engagement). Yes, using the stretch method is much more time consuming, but I prefer this as opposed to simply using a torque wrench. Using the stretch method allows you to monitor bolt stretch during tightening, and provides reference data for future rod bolt servicing (provided you takes notes and record each bolt’s free length and stretched length).
Once a pair of rods have been installed to a single rod journal, rotate the crank to verify smooth operation.
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A rod bolt stretch gauge allows you to take a reference measurement of each rod bolt’s free length. As the bolt is tightened, the gauge is reinstalled to monitor the amount of bolt stretch.
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If rod bolts are specified at torque with moly or oil, be aware that torque specification will be different, depending on which lube is used. The use of a quality moly-based lubricant, such as ARP Ultra-Torque, provides appreciably less friction, resulting in a more accurate and consistent clamping force.
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Apply lube to the rod bolt threads.
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Also apply lube to the underside of the rod bolt head.
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The rod bolt stretch gauge is used to monitor/verify bolt stretch. Even if you opt to tighten by using a torque wrench, it’s a good idea to check bolt stretch before and after final tightening, if only to make sure that you don’t exceed maximum recommended bolt stretch.
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INSTALL THE OIL PUMP
Before you bother to install the pump, first take the time to inspect the pump-to-intermediate driveshaft fit. Each end of the driveshaft is slotted. One end also features a centered hole. This is the end that engages to the oil pump’s male driveshaft stub. Check to make sure that the shaft easily drops onto the pump’s drive. Also check the upper slotted end of the driveshaft to your distributor for proper fit. If the slotted ends don’t fit (or feature a very tight interference fit), you may need to either file-fit to correct, or purchase another driveshaft. Just make sure that you check shaft fit before proceeding further.
Temporarily install the oil pump to the block using a pair of 3/8”x16x1 ½” grade 8 bolts, and tighten to about 30 ft-lbs. Don’t bother installing the pump-to-block gasket yet. With the pump bolted in place, you’ll need to fit the oil pickup to the pump. Depending on the pump and oil pan sump that you have, the style of pickup may be other than OE style. When installed, you want the lowest portion of the pickup (when viewed with engine upright) to be located about 5/16” to 1/2” away from the floor of the pan sump.
In our build, I’m using an OE-style 4-qt pan, a Melling pump and Melling pickup (pickup designed to work with the stock pan).
Place the end of the pickup tube at the pump’s pickup tube bore (you’ll need to hold it against the bore…since this is an interference fit, you won’t e able to insert the tube yet). Measuring from the block’s pan rail, note the distance from the pan rail to the sump floor (our pan features a 7” deep sump). In our application, I adjusted the pickup so that the screen end was about 1/2″ short of the pan sump floor distance. Using a marker, place a matchmarks at the pump body and pickup tube as a reference.
Insert the pickup tube into the pump’s pickup bore (this is an interference fit, so hold the tube in place as you begin to pound inward). DO NOT bang against the tube with a hammer. Using a specialty tool designed for pickup tube installation, place the tool’s crowsfoot end against the tube’s flare and drive the tool using a hammer. Once fully seated, measure the location of the pickup screen again. This is easily adjusted at this point by gently tapping the pickup up or down. Once the pickup is located in the desired height position, Remove the oil pump from the block and tig-weld the pickup tube to the pump body. This insures that the pickup won’t move during engine operation.
Holding the oil pump/pickup assembly over a container, pour clean engine oil into the pickup screen to allow oil to flow into the pump while turning the pump drive by hand. This provides an initial priming of the pump, coating the gears with lube. It’s messy, but it will suffice. An alternative is to remove the pump gear cover and apply lube directly to the gears, and then replacing the cover.
REMEMBER to install the oil pump intermediate driveshaft into the block before installing the pump. Lube the shaft and insert into the driveshaft bore from the bottom of the block. The distributor-end of the shaft features stopper-stubs, capturing the shaft.
Carefully place a new oil pump to block gasket onto the block. Carefully install the oil pump, engaging the pump drive to the shaft and aligning the mounting bolt holes. Insert the 3/8” mounting bolts (fitted with loc washers and a drop of thread locker) and tighten the two bolts to a value of 30 ft-lbs.
Our Melling high volume oil pump and OE-style pickup.
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Our oil pan sump measured 7″ deep. The installed position of the oil pump (at it’s deepest point) measured about 6.75″.
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Interference-fitting the pickup tube to the pump requires the use of a dedicated pickup tube driver tool. The relief at the tool face engages onto the tube’s bubble flare.
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Engage the driver to the pickup tube bubble flare and tap the tube into the pump until the bubble flare is fully seated to the pump.
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Adjust the pickup for depth by tapping it to rotate.
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Once pickup position has been determined, tig-weld the tube into place to prevent loosening.
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The intermediate driveshaft (this connects the distributor shaft to the oil pump, allowing for oil pump drive) features stopper tangs near the upper end. The shaft is inserted from the bottom of the block. Once the shaft is in place and the oil pump is installed, this captures the shaft, preventing it from pulling out whenever the distributor is removed.
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The lower end of the driveshaft features a slot and center hole, which engages to the male drive of the pump. Be sure to check fit of the shaft to the pump before installing!
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Insert the intermediate shaft into the block before installing the oil pump. Apply lube to the shaft prior to insertion.
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Don’t forget the oil pump to block gasket. Position the gasket onto the block.
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When installing the oil pump, carefully engage the intermediate shaft to the pump. With the pump-to-block bolts tightened, check to make sure that you have a bit of endplay between the pump’s drive and the intermediate shaft.
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I measured our shaft endplay at about 0.075″.
OIL DIPSTICK TUBES
The 455 block takes a two-piece dipstick tube assembly, featuring a lower tube and an upper tube. The upper tube is inserted into the block from the bottom of the block upwards, until the lower flared-out end interference-fits into the block’s dipstick up hole passage. The lower tube (male end) slips into the upper tube’s flared-out female end. In our build, I’m not using a windage tray (the oil pan has a built-in baffle). The lower tube for this application features a welded-on bracket that bolts to a main cap fastener. I should have mentioned this earlier, since it’s best to install the upper tube before installing the crank (although this can be done at any time prior to oil pan installation).
Initially I purchased a lower stainless steel tube (with bracket) from Kaufman Racing, which is made to OE dimensions. However, I purchased a chrome plated upper tube with billet handle dipstick from Spectre. Unfortunately, the Spectre upper tube’s flared end was 0.070” too small in inside diameter for the lower tube to insert, due to a slight inside diameter “flare” at the tip (likely created when the tube was cut prior to plating). I had a choice here: either cut about 1/16” from the bottom end of the chrome tube and deburr (to open it up to about 0.450”) or use a stainless steel upper tube from Kaufman. I opted for the stainless tube, since I didn’t want to worry about possible chrome plating chipping off of the chromed tube.
When driving the upper tube into the block, insert a bolt and a small-diameter flat washer into the flared end of the tube, to minimize the chance of distorting the end of the tube. Tap the tube into place until the tube’s flare bottoms out in the block’s tube bore.
The lower tube inserts into the flared end of the upper tube. This lower tube features a curve that directs the dipstick into the sump. Fitting the lower tube can present a challenge, especially when using aftermarket 4-bolt main caps. I ended up grinding a bit of material from the outboard end of the number 3 main cap for clearance. Once fitted, the lower tube’s bracket mounts to the bottom of the number 3 main cap with two 5/16”x18x1/2” grade 8 bolts and loc washers.
The dipstick tube assembly consists of two tubes: the upper tube, which is interference fit into the block (from the bottom of the block) and a lower curved tube that directs the dipstick into the sump.
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The lower tube inserts into the flared end of the upper tube. If the tubes were made correctly, the lower tube should easily slip into the upper tube.
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The lower dipstick tube features a welded bracket that bolts to the No. 3 main cap. A bit of tweaking is common to align the bracket and to make it clear the inboard main cap stud nut.
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Final verifying our oil pan fit. I’m using a set of ARP polished stainless steel oil pan studs. This helps to guide the pan and its gasket during installation.
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INSTALLING THE CYLINDER HEADS
Clean the decks (block and heads) to remove all traces of oil or other contaminants. Position the head gasket (using the deck dowels to locate the gasket). For this build, I chose a set of Cometic MLS (multi-layer steel) head gaskets at a compressed thickness of 0.045” (per our compression requirements). Position the head onto the locating dowels, and make sure that the head is fully seated. If you’re using head bolts, always measure each bolt for length and compare to installed depth (bottom of female threaded holes to top of cylinder head bolt locations) to verify that bolts won’t bottom-out. If bolts bottom out, you won’t achieve clamping load). In this case, I’m using ARP cylinder head studs, so this isn’t an issue. First clean all studs (as they may have been contaminated during test fitting, laying around, etc.). Apply a bit of oil to the bottom threads (or you may use a locking compound if you prefer a more permanent stud mount). Locking the studs in place is really only needed if you plan to service the engine frequently (as with a race engine). However, if you decide to lock the studs in place, DO NOT use an anaerobic compound (Loctite, etc.), as this tends to expand when cured. Depending on cylinder wall thickness, this can result in excess pressure against the cylinder walls, which can lead to cylinder wall cracking. Instead, use JB Weld or similar compound.
Install the studs hand-tight (I finger-tighten, followed by a slight preload of maybe 5 ft-lbs). DO NOT severely tighten studs to the block. The clamping load will be achieved when the nuts are tightened. There’s no need to tighten the studs in the block, and over-tightening can lead to stud splaying.
Instead of bolts, I opted for a set of ARP cylinder head studs. The use of studs helps to establish a more uniform clamping load, since you’re not dealing with the friction of bolts in the block’s threads. In addition, this eliminates the concern for possible bottoming-out of head bolts which would prevent proper clamping load.
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ARP studs feature a convenient female hex drive, allowing you to use a hex wrench for installation or removal. Hand-tighten the studs to the block only. DO NOT try to “torque” the studs to the block. Also, while there is no need to “lock” the studs in place, if you wish to create a more “permanent” stud installation (making it easier to service the heads, especially for race applications), do not use an anaerobic compound (Loctite, etc.), as this may expand when cured, placing unwanted pressure against thin cylinder walls, which could lead to bore cracking. If you want to lock them in place, a better choice would be JB Weld or something similar. If you need to remove the studs in the future for an engine rebuild, simply apply heat to the studs to break them loose.
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After cleaning the decks, the Cometic MLS head gaskets were positioned onto the dowels. Our gaskets feature a thickness of 0.045″.
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Verify that the gaskets are positioned correctly. I previously checked gasket placement after the bare block was painted to make sure that no excess paint thickness was present between the gaskets and decks.
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With the Kaufman Racing CNC-ported heads in place, I torqued all head stud nuts to 110 ft-lbs, per ARP’s specs, using ARP Ultra-Torque assembly lube.
Apply a film of ARP Ultra Torque (moly) to the upper stud threads and to the bottom of the nuts. Install the flat washers, install the nuts and tighten. Begin by tightening all 10 nuts to a value of 15 ft-lbs. Continue to tighten in steps to a final value of 110 ft-lbs. I tightened at 15, 30, 55, 85 and then 100 ft-lbs). Tighten in a “spiral” pattern, starting at the center and working outward in a clockwise spiral pattern. Follow the same tightening pattern during each step.
CYLINDER HEAD TIGHTENING PATTERN
As with any aluminum head, the proper tightening pattern must be followed to insure that the clamping load is being spread evenly. The reference to “right” and “left” here is as viewed when looking at the head, standing at the exhaust side of the head.
1…………Inboard center
2…………Outboard center
3…………Outboard, left of center
4…………Inboard, left of center
5…………Inboard, right of center
6…………Outboard, right of center
7…………Outboard, far left
8…………Inboard, far left
9…………Inboard, far right
10………..Outboard, far right
NEXT ARTICLE
In the next article installment, we’ll wrap up engine assembly by covering installation of the lifters, pushrods, rocker studs, rocker arms and valve adjustment, timing cover, oil pan, valley cover, distributor and custom plug wire routing, water pump, crank balancer, our customized intake manifold, custom valve covers, carb, alternator and pulleys.
TEASER
I can’t resist. While I’ll cover intake manifold installation in the next article, I thought I’d provide a look at what we’ve done to the manifold. Following are “before and after” shots. I’ll provide details in the next installment.
Before: Our Professional Products’ single plane Hurricane intake, fresh out of the box.
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After: A very cool “carbon fiber” treatment. I wanted to do something “different,” and I think it looks nifty. Just wait until you see the finished engine. We have a few surprises in store.
FASTENER TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
(Note: This list applies to our specific build using aftermarket components. This list does not necessarily represent OE specifications)
MAIN STUDS TO BLOCK………..……Hand tight
CYL HEAD STUDS TO BLOCK……….Hand tight
MAIN CAPS 1-4………………..………100 ft-lb (w/ARP moly)
MAIN CAP #5……………………..……120 ft-lb (w/ARP moly)
CAMSHAFT RETAINING PLATE…….20 ft-lb (w/thread locker)
CAM GEAR TO CAMSHAFT…..………40 ft-lb (w/thread locker)
CONNECTING ROD CAP BOLTS…….63 ft-lb (w/ARP moly; 0.005” stretch max)
OIL PUMP TO BLOCK…………………30 ft-lb (w/thread locker)
OIL PUMP BOTTOM COVER…………15 ft-lb (w/thread locker)
CYL. HEAD STUD NUTS………….….110 ft-lb (w/ARP moly)
TIMING COVER TO BLOCK…………. 30 ft-lb
WATER PUMP TO TIMING COVER..…15 ft-lb
OIL PAN TO BLOCK…………………….12 ft-lb
BALANCER TO CRANK……….….…..160 ft-lb
CRANK PULLEY TO DAMPER………. 20 ft-lb
TIMING COVER TO INTAKE BOLT…..10 ft-lb (O-ring & RTV)
VALVE COVERS………………………… 8 ft-lb
VALLEY PAN…………………………….15 ft-lb
INTAKE MANIFOLD (aluminum)……….25 ft-lbs
FLYWHEEL TO CRANK…………………90 ft-lb (w/ARP moly)
MY PARTS LIST
BLOCK………………………..Original Pontiac 455 (core)
CRANKSHAFT……………….Ohio Crankshaft P/N 44554500P
4340 forged, with 4.500” stroke,
455 mains and BBC rod pins
CONN. RODS………………….Scat forged 6.700” BBC P/N 2-454-6700-2200
STEEL CENTER MAIN CAPS..Pro-gram Engineering P/N P455C
MAIN STUDS…………………ARP P/N 194-5601
HEAD STUDS…………………ARP P/N 190-4305
CYL. HEADS………………….Kaufman Racing aluminum D-port, 81cc CNC
CAMSHAFT/LIFTERS………..Comp Cams hyd. roller P/N CL51-433-9
ROCKERS……………………..Harland Sharp alum. rollers, P/N S6001 (1.5:1)
PISTONS……………………….JE forged aluminum (custom order)
TIMING GEARS……………….Melling Performance P/N 40408
OIL PUMP………………………Melling Performance P/N 10540
TIMING COVER……………….EQ (EngineQuest) P/N TC400N
INTAKE VALVES………………Del West titanium (custom order: 2.10” x 5.100”)
EXHAUST VALVES……………Ferrea stainless steel P/N F5144 (1.77” x 5.100”)
VALVE SPRINGS………………Comp Cams P/N 995-16 (330 lb, triple)
RETAINERS…………………….Comp Cams 740-16 (10-deg, steel)
VALVE LOCKS EXH…………..Comp Cams 613-16 (10-deg Superlocks)
VALVE LOCKS INT……………Manley 13161-8 (10-deg Beadlock)
VALVE SEALS…………………Comp Cams, Teflon
VALVE SPRING LOCATORS…Comp Cams 4771-16
BALANCER…………………….Fluidampr P/N 650401 (6-5/8”)
FLEXPLATE……………………PRW P/N 1845503
INTAKE MANIFOLD…………..Professional Products Hurricane P/N 56031
CARBURETOR…………………Holley P/N 0-82851 (850 cfm)
CARB. FEED……………………Earls –8, P/N AT101286ER
DISTRIBUTOR…………………MSD Pro Billet P/N 8563
SPARK PLUG WIRES………….MSD P/N 31179
LIFTER VALLEY COVER……..Kaufman Racing (aluminum)
GASKET SET ……………………Mahle Victor FS3494J
CYL. HEAD GASKETS…………Cometic C5712-045 (4.300” bore/0.045” thick)
MAIN BEARINGS………………Mahle Clevite P/N MS667P
ROD BEARINGS……………….Mahle Clevite P/N CB743HN
CAM BEARINGS……………….Mahle Clevite P/N SH2925
VALVE COVERS……………….PRW welded aluminum, satin
WATER PUMP………………….Tuff Stuff 1475NA (chrome) or PRW 1445510
ALTERNATOR…………………Tuff Stuff, P/N 7139ABULL (100A, chrome)
OIL PAN STUDS……………….ARP 400-1902
INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS…ARP 494-2101
ROCKER STUDS……………….ARP 100-7101
CARB STUDS…………………..ARP400-2403
TIMING COVER BOLTS……….ARP 490-1501
FUEL PUMP BOLTS……………ARP 490-1601
THERMOSTAT BOLTS………..ARP 490-7401
DISTRIBUTOR STUD……….…ARP 490-1701
CAMSHAFT BOLT……………..ARP 190-1001
VALVE COVER STUDS………..ARP 400-7504
FLEXPLATE BOLTS…………….ARP 200-2904
CRANK BALANCER BOLT……ARP 190-2501
HEAD TO BLOCK DOWELS……Pioneer S-1110
CAMSHAFT NOSE SPACER WASHER….Kaufman Racing
(takes the place of the OE eccentric fuel pump re thickness)
ENGINE LIFT HOOKS……………Kaufman Racing
DIST. HOLD-DOWN CLAMP……Kaufman Racing
POLY DISTRIBUTOR GEAR…….BOP P/N PDG37/38 (.500” for MSD)
OIL PAN (steel OE type)..…………Kaufman Racing
DIPSTICK………………………….Spectre P/N 5748 (billet handle)
UPPER DIPSTICK STUBE………..Kaufman Racing
LOWER DIPSTICK TUBE………..Kaufman Racing
OIL FILTER HOUSING…………..Kaufman Racing
FUEL PUMP BLOCK PLATE…….Kaufman Racing
THERMOSTAT HOUSING……….Spectre P/N 4737
OIL PAN PLATES…………………Kaufman Racing
OIL PUMP DRIVE ROD ………….Melling
VITON REAR MAIN SEAL………B.O.P
ASSEMBLY CHEMICALS……….Valco, ARP, Royal Purple
PUSHRODS (5/16”)………………..Trend 9.000” int/8.950” exh (0.080” wall)
CRANK PULLEY…………………..TBA
WATER PUMP PULLEY………….TBA
ALTERNATOR BRACKET……….Tin Indian TIP-029
BREATHERS………………………Billet Specialties
SPARK PLUGS………………….NGK R5671A-7
ENGINE PAINT……………………Pontiac Light Metallic Blue in
Dupont Chroma basecoat/clearcoat…custom match
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OUR PROJECT’S SUPPLIER DIRECTORY
ARP, INC.
1863 Eastman Ave.
Ventura, CA 93003
800-826-3045
Birchwood Automotive Group
10205 Wooster Pike Rd.
Creston, OH 44217
330-435-6347
B.O.P. Engineering
N3651 Schmidt Rd.
Jefferson, WI 53549
920-674-6058
Comp Cams
3406 Democrat Rd.
Memphis, TN 38118
800-999-0853
Del West Engineering
28128 W. Livingston Ave.
Valencia, CA 91355
800-990-2779
Earl’s Performance Plumbing
Holley Performance Products
P.O. Box 10360
Bowling Green, KY 42102
270-782-2900
EQ (Enginequest)
2580 N. Commerce St.
North Las Vegas, NV 89030-3876
800-426-8771
Ferrea Racing Components
2600 NW 55th Ct., Suite 234
Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309
888-733-2505
Fluidampr-Horschel Motorsports
180 Zoar Valley Rd.
Springville, NY 14141
716-592-1000
Goodson Tools & Supplies
156 Galewski Dr.
Winona, MN 55987
800-533-8010
Harland Sharp
19769 Progress Dr.
Strongsville, OH 44149
440-238-3260
Holley Performance Products
P.O. Box 10360
Bowling Green, KY 42102
270-782-2900
JE Pistons Inc.
15312 Connector Lane
Huntington Beach, CA 92649
714-898-9763
Kaufman Racing Equipment
22280 Temple Rd.
Glenmont, OH 44628
740-599-5000
Lista International
106 Lowland St.
Holliston, MA 01746
800-722-3020
Mahle Clevite
1350 Eisenhower Place
Ann Arbor, MI 48108-3282
734-975-4777
Mac Tools
505 N. Cleveland Ave.
Westerville, OH 43082
800-622-8665
Melling Select Performance
P.O. Box 1188
Jackson, MI 49204
517-787-8172
www.melling.com
MSD Ignition
1490 Henry Brennan Dr.
El Paso, TX 79936-6805
915-857-5200
Ohio Crankshaft
5453 South State Route 49
Greenville, OH 45331
800-333-7113
Professional Products
12705 S. Van Ness Ave.
Hawthorne, CA 90250
800-478-5441
Pro-Gram Engineering Corp.
P.O. Box 472
Barberton, OH 44203
330-745-1004
PRW (Performance Racing Warehouse)
193 West Orangethorpe Ave.
Placentia, CA 92870
714-792-1000
www.performanceracingwarehouse.com
Ross Racing Engines
1763 N. Main St.
Niles, OH 44446-1277
330-544-4466
Royal Purple Ltd.
One Royal Purple Lane
Porter, TX 77365
888-382-6300
Scat Enterprises
1400 Kingsdale Ave.
Redondo Beach, CA 90278-3983
310-370-5501
Snap-On Tools
2801 80th St.
Kenosha, WI 53143-5699
262-656-5200
Summit Racing
P.O. Box 909
Akron, OH 44398-6177
800-230-3030
Tin Indian Performance
P.O. Box 1162
Uniontown, OH 44685
330-699-1358
Trend Performance
23444 Schoenherr
Warren, MI 48089
586-447-0400
Trick Flow Specialties
285 West Ave.
Tallmadge, OH 44278
888-841-6556
Tuff Stuff Performance Accessories
9004 Madison Ave.
Cleveland, OH 44102-2715
800-331-6562
Valco Cincinnati CP, Inc.
411 Circle Freeway Dr.
Cincinnati, OH 45246-1284
800-788-3865
Tags: 455, 501, ARP, ASSEMBLY, BIRCHWOOD AUTOMOTIVE, BOP ENGINEERING, CAMSHAFT, CLEVITE, COMP CAMS, CRANKSHAFT, DEL WEST, DIPSTICK, EARLS, ENGINE BUILD, EQ, FERREA, Fluidampr, GEARHEAD TOOLS, GOODSON, HARLAND SHARP, HOLLEY, JE PISTONS, KAUFMAN RACING, LISTA, LOCKS, LONG BLOCK, lube, Mac Tools, MAHLE, MSD, Ohio Crankshaft, OIL PUMP, PICKUP, PINS, PISTONS, PONTIAC, Pro-Gram Engineering, PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS, PROJECT ENGINE, PRW, RINGS, RODS, ROSS RACING ENGINES, ROTATING ASSEMBLY, ROYAL PURPLE, SCAT, SNAP ON, STRETCH, SUMMIT RACING, SUPPORT RAIL, TIMING, TIN INDIAN, TORQUE, TREND PERFORMANCE, TRICK FLOW, TUFF STUFF, Valco
