PROJECT FLATHEAD, PART 4

The final product is a bit more enhanced than the in-progress photo shown here. I’ll discuss our chrome water pump upgrade, the final custom alternator setup and the complete fuel system setup in the next article.

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This installment of our Ford Flathead series discusses the timing cover/distributor housing, setup and installation of the MSD distributor, my custom spark plug routing, and installation of the Edelbrock triple-deuce intake manifold.

Engine build, text and photos

by Mike Mavrigian

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DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING/TIMING COVER

As I mentioned in the previous article (Part 3 of this series), there are two different timing cover/distributor housings that apply to the full-size distributor (not the pancake distributor), including the cast iron 8BA-6059 housing and the OBA-6059-A aluminum housing. The type of housing needed will be based on the distributor you choose.

If using the MSD Pro-Billet Ready To Run distributor P/N 8573 along with the MSD drive gear, you’ll need the cast iron cover (Ford P/N 8BA-6059, used on the 1949-1950 engines). If you buy the MSD distributor but already have the aluminum housing, you can use the Ford gear #12390 (1951-53) or 12390-C (1949-50). In other words, depending on which drive gear you have, you can use either cover. If you use the MSD-supplied gear with their distributor, you need the cast iron cover.

Note: the original distributor hold-down clamp (Ford #12270 from 1949-53) won’t work on the MSD distributor because of the larger diameter of the billet aluminum shaft housing. You can make one or buy a clamp from H&H Flatheads (Luke’s Custom Machine & Design (604-980-8617).

The timing cover/distributor housing features a raised register lip that locates the cover to the block around the cam gear area. This lip must be fully engaged (the cover must install completely flush to the block) before attempting to tighten the cover bolts to avoid damaging the cast iron cover housing.

Before final installing the timing cover (during test fitting), test-install the distributor and rotate the crank to verify that there is no bind at the distributor gear-to-ca-gear. During final installation, don’t final-tighten the cover bolts until the distributor is fully installed.  Slight misalignment of the cover can cause distributor gear alignment problems.

The timing cover/distributor housing is attached to the block face with five 5/16”x18 x 1” stainless steel SHCS (socket head cap screws), using a kit from Totally Stainless. Before mounting the timing cover, I applied a bead of RTV to the radius pocket for the front crank seal (since I’m using a one-piece rubber front seal). This fills any voids between the seal O.D. and the timing cover seal pocket. I also applied a thin bead of RTV to both sides of the timing cover gasket. The female threaded holes in the block are blind, so there’s no need to seal the threads from an oil leak standpoint, but I applied a drop of Valco thread locker to each bolt’s threads in addition to the stainless loc washers from the Totally Stainless kit. The timing cover bolts were snugged to a value of 15 ft-lbs.

Aside from main cap bolts and head bolts, I’m using an array of stainless SHCS kits from Totally Stainless. Their kits are very well packaged, in labeled sealed bags. Their kits (timing cover, oil pan, water pump, etc.) are very well organized, all bolt diameters, thread pitches and shank lengths are correct, and all kits include any necessary loc and/or flat washers. I also used their crankshaft damper bolts, which is a high-strength stainless hex headed bolt featuring a 5/8”x18 x 1” shank, along with a high-strength stainless flat washer. I highly recommend Totally Stainless fastener kits. They do a nice job. They also offer a choice in head styles (hex, 12-point and SHCS).

I used a selection of stainless steel SHCS (socket head cap screws) from Totally Stainless for many aspects of this build. Whenever using a stainless steel fastener, it’s always a good idea to apply some type of thread lubricant to avoid galling. Depending on the specific application, this might involve moly lube, thread sealant or a thread locking compound. Installing a dry stainless fastener increases the chance of thread galling during installation.

Totally Stainless does a very nice job of packaging their fastener kits. Each kit is labeled and, in my experience with their kits, every kit is complete and lengths are exactly  correct.

DISTRIBUTOR

You can always depend on MSD for quality components that provide not only reliable performance, but well-designed fit. Addressing the increased popularity of the flathead, MSD developed a “ready-to-run” billet distributor specifically for the flattie.

Using the MSD Flathead billet distributor P/N 8573, a supplied aluminum chamfered depth-seating adapter is first installed to the bottom of the distributor shaft (prior to gear installation), and secured with a set screw.

The MSD 8573 billet distributor is a wonderful choice for a flathead build. It’s also “ready-to-run, and does not require an external MSD control box.

The MSD distributor outshines an OE unit by light years, in terms of appearance, performance and durability. It’s a no-brainer…just buy one.

With the distributor’s depth-seating adapter seated against the cam’s distributor gear, the adjustable collar on the distributor shaft housing is placed on top of the flat-milled location at the front of the right side cylinder head and tightened. This sets the distributor depth. In order to secure the distributor, a universal Ford type distributor hold-down clamp (or a custom-made clamp) secures the MSD collar to the cylinder head. Instead of using a bolt for the hold-down clamp, I installed an ARP bullet-nose stainless 5/16” stud, washer and nut for added convenience.

The MSD distributor features a height-adjustable mounting bracket. It’s imperative that you spend some time to establish the correct installed height.

The MSD distributor kit includes a depth-setting adapter. Install this to the shaft (secured with a set screw). The chamfer cut on the adapter will rest against the camshaft’s drive gear, allowing you to establish the correct installed height. With the distributor installed (using this chamfered adapter), you can then establish the correct height placement for the adjustable collar.

The MSD flathead distributor includes everything needed for setup and installation, including the driven gear, the height-setting chamfered adapter, a vacuum advance lockout kit and a selection of advance springs.

Installing the advance lockout kit is easy. Remove the vacuum advance unit and install the composite lockout arm using the provided hardware.

The MSD Flathead distributor features vacuum advance. If you wish to eliminate the vacuum setup and lock the advance, MSD supplies all of the parts needed. I opted to do this, to both clean up the visual appearance and to provide added clearance for my planned water pump/alternator belt routing (I’ll discuss my custom alternator setup in an upcoming article in this series).

Installing the distributor to the original cast iron timing cover/distributor housing presented a bit of a challenge. First of all, the distributor bore in the cast iron housing wasn’t exactly smooth. I cured this by running a hone in the bore to obtain a smooth surface. In addition, the original cast iron distributor housing features a raised radial ridge on the rear face that registers to the front of the block. I originally installed the housing (using a gasket from the Egge kit and 5/16” x 18 SHCS from Totally Stainless), adding a light film of RTV. However, when I attempted to install the distributor with its gear attached, the gear teeth would only engage by about 0.300” (about halfway), and the distributor would not fully seat. I removed the housing, cleaned off the gasket and RTV material and installed a fresh gasket. I then loosely installed the housing (starting all bolts). Before tightening the bolts, I installed the distributor to gain full gear engagement. I then gradually began to tighten the bolts, turning the crank (and engaged distributor) to verify smooth operation until fully tightened at 18 ft-lbs. Apparently, enough rotational play of the housing to the block is present to move the distributor angle (relative to the cam’s drive gear) to cause a clearance issue. Also, since the final set-depth of the distributor, the MSD billet clamp (the edge of the clamp rests on a milled flat of the RH cylinder head) moved fully upwards on the distributor shaft and would not seat on the cylinder head flat (the clamp thickness was too great, so I milled 0.125” of material from the underside of the billet clamp. None of the problems can be blamed on MSD. Rather, it’s simply the nature of the beast when dealing with the antiquated flathead distributor housing.

Once you’ve adjusted the installed distributor height (using the chamfered adapter), remove the adapter and install the provided gear, securing with the supplied roll pin. The gear slides on easily, with no press fitting required.

The distributor should drop into the cast iron housing easily. You may need to run a hone to clean up the housing bore prior to installing the housing. Make sure to check distributor fit to the housing before attempting to install the housing to the block.

For the sake of convenience as well as appearance, I installed an ARP stainless steel 5/16″ radius-tip stud to the RH cylinder head for securing the distributor’s collar bracket.

INTAKE MANIFOLD

While a variety of intake manifold brands and styles are available for the flathead, for this build I’m using Edelbrock’s new triple-deuce aluminum intake manifold, P/N 1109, a reproduction of Edelbrock’s classic Model SU-349. Edelbrock currently offers several intake manifolds for both the 1939-48 and 1949-53 flatheads, for single 3-bolt, dual 3-bolt, single 4-barrel and triple 3-bolt carbs (the 3-bolt carbs that apply include the Holley 94, Stromberg 97 and the Demon 98).

Here’s a rundown of Edelbrock’s intake manifolds for the Ford flathead:

P/N 1100

The Edelbrock Super Dual intake manifold is designed for use on 1938-1948 Ford and Mercury flathead V8 engines. This manifold accepts two 3-bolt carburetors (Stromberg 97 type, Holley 3-bolt type or Demon 98). This manifold includes a 1942-1948 offset generator bracket #1945.

P/N 1103

The Super Dual Slingshot manifold is designed for use on 1938-1948 Ford and Mercury flathead V8s. It accepts two 3-bolt carbs (Stromberg 97 type, Holly 3-bolt or Demon 98). This manifold is compatible with the stock generator in the stock generator location. The top y-block must be secured to the lower manifold with supplied bolts. Use a small amount of Teflon paste on the bolts to prevent vacuum leaks.

P/N 1107

This single-quad manifold accepts a single 4-barrel carburetor and is designed for the 1949-1953 Ford flathead V8. This is a reproduction of the vintage Edelbrock #452 two-piece manifold, with a new carb adapter flange designed for modern 4-barrel carburetors. The manifold will accept Edelbrock Performer Series 500 cfm carburetor #1403 (electric choke) or #1404 (manual choke), or Edelbrock Thunder Series AVS carb #1801 (electric choke) or #1802 (manual choke).

P/N 1108 and 1109

The Edelbrock Triple Deuce intake manifold #1108 is designed for use on 1938-1948 Ford flathead V8 engines, while #1109 is the same manifold designed for the 1949-1953 Ford flathead engines. The #1108 is a reproduction of the vintage Edelbrock SU 359 manifold, while the #1109 is a reproduction of the classic Edelbrock SU 349. Both manifolds feature 3-bolt carb flanges to accept Stromberg 97 type, Holley 3-bolt or (as in my build) the Demon 98.

Again, in my build, I’m using #1109, fitted with three Demon 98 carbs.

Note: In order to use Edelbrock’s Offset Generator Bracket #1945 (this attaches to the LH cylinder head), you must use three 4.75”-long cylinder head studs. These studs are available from ARP as P/N 4.75S.

The Edelbrock P/N 1109 Triple Deuce intake manifold is a modern-day reproduction of an old Edelbrock classic. The 1109 (along with all of Edelbrock’s flathead manifolds) are manufactured in the USA, using high-quality dense aluminum material, modern high-precision casting methods and dead-accurate CNC finish machining. They look like the old versions, but they’re made even better today thanks to state-of-the-art design and manufacturing advances.

A view of the manifold belly. Again, thanks to precise design and CNC work, ports and bolt holes featured dead-on alignment to the block.

Our block’s top deck features fourteen 3/8”x16 bolt holes for the intake manifold. However, the new Edelbrock manifold features 15 bolt holes, with three holes facing bare, un-drilled locations on the block’s manifold deck. This does not mean that the manifold is incorrect. Ford had so many versions of this bolt hole layout (early and late versions of both 1939-48 and 1949-53) that this is common. I spoke with Edelbrock technicians and they assured me that this is nothing to worry about…simply use the holes that do align.

In this particular build, the un-used manifold bolt holes include the second from front on the left side, and the second and third holes on the right side. Simply for the sake of appearance, I filled the manifold’s un-used bolt holes with 3/8” x 16 x ½” stainless steel  socket-head cap screws and stainless steel mil-spec flat washers, secured with RTV. Before installing these dummy fasteners, I punch-marked each (inside the female hex drive) for easy identification. This provides a reference in the future during any manifold servicing and/or bolt re-torquing, so that I avoid disturbing these dummy fasteners.

NOTE: Before installing the intake manifold, install the OE crankcase breather tube in the tube pocket located in the right front of the lifter valley (if you plan to use the OE style road draft tube). The valley tube is 5.5” long. The distance from the tube’s pocket bottom ledge (where the tube will rest once tapped into place) to the top block deck is approximately 5.5”, and the pocket depth is approximately 0.5”. Theoretically, the top of the tube should be about flush with the block’s manifold deck. Check this to make sure that the tube does not protrude above deck, as this will prevent manifold seating on the block deck. Since I decided not to use the OE type draft rube and breather (opting to vent the crankcase using a rear-mounted breather instead), I saw no reason to install the vertical tube in the valley.

The left forward side of the manifold features two large ports (matching the OE design). The forward hole accepts the original style road draft tube (this vented the crankcase to the atmosphere via a bent steel tube that exited below the engine, toward the road surface).

The second-front front port accepts the OE-style oil-fill/breather tube assembly. Since I decided to install a fill/breather tube at the rear of the manifold, I plugged both front holes (road draft and breather tube locations).

I made a plug to seal the front road draft port by milling aluminum bar stock on my lathe. I cut twin grooves and installed O-rings.

In case I decide to install a PCV system in the future, I also tapped the front plug to 1/4″ NPT. I sealed with an aluminum NPT plug.

I also made a plug for the original fill/breather tube port, cutting aluminum bar stock on the lathe. I decided to machine a grip-knob simply for ease of future removal (and because I decided to play with the lathe).  Shown here is the plug in raw-machined form, prior to O-ring groove cutting and final satin-polishing.

Here the O-rings have been fitted (still prior to final polishing). The two lower O-rings provide a tight interference fit to the bore, and the upper O-ring provides an additional seal.

Here we see both front plugs installed. This cleans up the engine (eliminating the OE tubes). Note: the flat recessed surface seen at the front of the manifold (shown here at the far left of the photo) provides the OE mounting location for the original generator bracket. The Edelbrock manifold is designed to accept all OE bolt-ons. I designed a custom alternator setup that I’ll show in the next article (Part 5).

The rear of the manifold features a boss originally intended to mount the mechanical fuel pump. Since I plan to run an electric pump, I used this location to install a breather/oil fill tube assembly.

The Egge-supplied intake gasket fit perfectly.  After verifying gasket and manifold fit, I installed the gasket with an ever-so-light bead-smear of RTV.

I secured the manifold using an intake bolt kit from Totally Stainless (maintaining the SHCS theme). The bolts were torqued in several stages to a final value of 24 ft-lbs. For the sake of appearance, I filled the un-used bolt holes with short 3/8″ stainless SHCS.

Note the rear-mounted breather tube installed at the original fuel pump location.  As I mentioned earlier, I’ll discuss the fuel system in the next article installment.

One manifold bolt location (right side, second from front adjacent to the carb base) features a milled entry path for the right-side carburetor base bolt. However, the cut wasn’t really relieved with enough height to provide clearance to install this bolt, so I relieved the cut about 0.500” higher, which allowed the installation of the 3/8” SHCS (the option would be to use a 3/8”x16x 2.25” stud at that location, but removing the extra aluminum from the intake was an easy and quick job, using a 3/8” x 13 mini pneumatic belt sander).

Using a manifold gasket from the Egge gasket kit, I mounted the intake manifold using a 3/8” x 16 x 1.5” stainless steel socket head cap screw kit from Totally Stainless. All bolts (with threads coated with ARP moly) are tightened to a value of 20-25 ft-lbs. In terms of the tightening sequence, start at the center area and work your way outward in a criss-cross pattern. I tightened the intake bolts in two steps, starting with a value of 12 ft-lbs and final-tightening at a value of 24 ft-lbs.

Edelbrock recommends using Fel-Pro intake gasket #MS2853. Apply Gasgacinch sealant P/N 9300 to the engine block mounting surface, allowing the sealant to air-dry before installing the intake gasket. Regarding bolt tightening, Edelbrock recommends starting in the center and working your way out in a criss-cross manner, finally tightening all manifold bolts to a value of 20 to 25 ft-lbs.

MY INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLT TIGHTENING PATTERN

(referring to the bolt holes that exist in the intake manifold)

1. LH third hole from front

2. LH fifth hole from front

3. RH fourth hole from front

4. LH fourth hole from front

5. RH third hole from front

6. LH fifth hole from front

7. RH second hole from front

8. LH sixth hole from front

9. RH first hole at front

10. LH last hole at rear

11. RH last hole at rear

12. LH first hole at front

Initial tightening was accomplished at 12 ft-lbs, with final bolt tightening at a value of 24 ft-lbs. I actually performed the intake manifold bolt tightening in several steps, starting at 12 ft-lbs, followed by 16 ft-lbs, followed by 20 ft-lbs, and finishing at 24 ft-lbs (following the tightening sequence at each step).

The front left of the manifold features two bores that are open to the crankcase. The front bore was originally designed for the road draft tube, and the second-from-front bore was for the original style breather tube and breather cap assembly. Since I plan to install a stack breather tube at the rear mechanical fuel pump location, I plugged the two front bores. The front bore measures 1.243” I.D., and the second bore measures 1.370” I.D.

Using a piece of aluminum round bar stock, I made two plugs for these holes on my lathe. The front plug measures 1.240” O.D., x 0.880” long, with two O-ring grooves that were cut 0.135” wide x 0.123” deep. This plug accommodates a pair of O-rings that measure 0.135”cross-section x 1.140” O.D.

The next bore (original breather bore) plug was 1.870” long overall (I machined a knob for future removal). The shank length is 0.827” long. I cut two groves in this plug as well, at a width of 0.135” and a depth of 0.144”. The O-rings measured 0.135” (cross-section) x 1.40” O.D. These plugs provide a snug fit for sealing and are removable. Yeah, I know that I could have simply installed a couple of expansion plugs, but I like playing with the lathe.

In order to provide the crankcase with a breather (as well as an oil-fill location), I installed a tall breather assembly (part number FJ-44 purchased from Flathead Jack) at the rear of the intake manifold, at the location that would originally have accommodated the mechanical fuel pump. This provides the ventilation function while cleaning up the engine (by eliminating the original front-mounted road draft tube and breather tube units). The breather assembly consists of an aluminum billet machined base that bolts to the intake manifold using a pair of 5/16”x18 x 1” stainless steel socket head cap screws (with a stock type fuel pump gasket between the intake and the breather base). The chrome plated breather tube locks into the base via a two-eared engagement, similar to a radiator cap engagement. A rubber gasket is located between the base and tube for compression retention. The chromed breather cap then locks onto the top of the tube in a similar manner. This will serve as both a crankcase breather and an oil fill location.

SPARK PLUG WIRE ROUTING

For this setup I chose MSD Super Conductor 8.5mm red wires (red), in universal length (P/N 31229), with 90-degree spark plug boots and 90-degree HEI style distributor cap boots.

Spark plug wire routing is a detail that I’m always concerned with, since I feel that the plug wires on any engine are a very noticeable aspect of the visual statement. After staring at the engine for more time than I care to admit, I came up with a plan.

Rather than simply flopping the wires from the distributor, over the heads and to the plugs, I decided to fabricate an aluminum wire organizer “loom” system consisting of four horizontally mounted aluminum tubes at each bank.

Since I wanted to organize the spark plug wires in a somewhat tidy fashion, I fabricated a tube-loom arrangement for each side. This was fairly simple. I cut aluminum tubing in staggered lengths, grouped together with aluminum wire separators.

The tube-loom arrangement mounts via fabricated aluminum brackets that connect the front and rear wire separators to the block’s exhaust port bolt locations.

By arranging the tubes flush at the front and staggered at the rear, each plug wire tastefully sweeps up to its spark plug. I felt that this was a neat way to accomplish plug wire routing, as opposed to draping the wires over top of the cylinder heads.

Since the MSD 8.5mm wires measure about 0.332”, I needed aluminum tubes with a large enough ID to allow a comfortable pass-through.

The aluminum tubing I chose features a 0.370” ID, with a 0.500” OD (0.065” wall). I purchased an 8ft length from McMaster Carr and proceeded to cut to fit. Each bank features four tubes (one for each wire). The tube lengths (starting with the top tube and graduating down to the bottom tube) include lengths of 2.5”, 7”, 11.75” and 16.25” respectively. I arranged the tubes flush at the front of the heads, allowing them to stagger rearward for each wire’s easy sweep path to its respective spark plug.

Securing each group of four tubes are three aluminum wire separators from Performance Distributors (4-hole, 3-hole and 2-hole). Because I intended to clamp these onto the 0.500” OD tubes, I drilled all separator holes out to 0.500”. The front 4-hole separator is mounted to a 0.125”-thick fabricated aluminum bracket that secures to the front upper exhaust port bolt hole (using a 0.375” long aluminum spacer and a 7/16x14x1” bolt. The 3-hole separator simply groups three tubes together and is not mounted to a support bracket. I modified the rear-most 2-hole separator by shaving the top of the clamp and removing the lower hole area completely. The top roof of this clamp locates between the third and fourth tubes. I shaved material from the top of the clamp (to a finished thickness of 0.085”) to achieve a decent parallelism between the third and fourth tubes. This modified separator is supported by a 0.125”-thick aluminum bracket that is secured to the center exhaust port’s upper bolt location (3/8×16 thread). Each mounting bracket is spaced out from the block’s exhaust flange surface with a 0.375”-long aluminum tube spacer as a stand-off (estimating the future exhaust header flange thickness). When an exhaust manifold or tubular header is selected and installed, the spacers may or may not be retained (depending on the thickness of the header flange).

In order to mount the four-hole and the final modified 1-hole separators to their brackets, I drilled out the 8×32 threads in the rear half of the separators and ran an 8x32x1” stainless steel socket head cap screw (the head countersinks into the top half of the separator). The 8×32 screw passes through both separator halves and the bracket and is secured with a stainless steel 8×32 nyloc nut.

Once the four-tube arrangement was finalized (fit and appearance) and was fully installed to the block, I then installed the plug wires at the spark plugs and routed each wire through its assigned tube. Once lengths were determined at the distributor cap, the wires were trimmed, and terminals and boots were installed with the wires secured in their looms.

Appearance-wise, I opted to use anodized aluminum tubing and satin aluminum wire separators. This monochrome treatment, placed against the cast aluminum cylinder heads, allows the eye to be drawn to the MSD red plug wires. Options would have included painting or plating the tubes, and/or using red or black wire separators. I thought about chrome plating the tubes, but since the chrome acorn head bolt covers were already in place, I decided not to add any more bright chrome. It’s all personal preference.

In order to maintain a flowing and organized appearance as the spark plug wires span across the front of the block to the MSD distributor, I installed a pair of 4-hole aluminum wire separators (I simply made brackets that allow attachment of the separators to the inboard upper LH water pump bolt and to the top center timing cover bolt). I drilled out the threaded hole in the rear section of each separator to allow pass-through of a 8×32 x1” stainless steel socket head cap screw, securing the separator to its bracket with a stainless steel nyloc nut.

Instead of using wire ties or other wire-bundling device, I organized the flow of the LH wires from the head to the distributor with the use of two aluminum wire separators (the separators are mounted with fabricated brackets that attach to the LH water pump and the top of the timing cover). Due to the angle (from LH head to distributor), I allowed the wires that sweep across the front of the block to “flow” in a natural pattern. I’m not thrilled about it, but it looks better than trying to “force” the wires into odd bends. This photo shows the alternator, but this shot was taken during test-fitting. The final alternator setup differs, and I’ll cover that in the next article.

FLATHEAD 8BA FIRING ORDER

1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2

(right bank, front to rear cyls 1-2-3-4;  left bank, front to rear cyls 5-6-7-8)

(distributor rotation: clockwise)

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COMING UP:

The next article in this series (Part 5) will cover the carburetor installations (three Demon 98s) and fuel plumbing, along with the very custom alternator setup and the now-polished and chromed water pumps.

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FASTENER TORQUE VALUES

MAIN BOLTS……………..……105 ft-lbs

ROD BOLTS……………..……..45 ft-lbs (w/ARP moly) (stretch not to exceed 0.0047”)

(our rod bolts are ARP 8740  3/8” dia. x 1.600” shank length)

CYL HEAD BOLTS……….……60 ft-lbs (in three steps)

(60 ft-lbs per Edelbrock. OE spec is 65-70)

WATER PUMPS……………….. 23-28 ft-lbs

CAMSHAFT TIMING GEAR…..15-20 ft-lbs

INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS….12 ft-lbs, followed by a final 24 ft-lbs

TIMING COVER…………………13-18 ft-lbs

OIL PUMP TO BLOCK………….12-15 ft-lbs

OIL PUMP COVER PLATE……..  7-10 ft-lbs

OIL PUMP PICKUP……………..80 in-lbs

OIL PAN………………………… 15-18 ft-lbs

FLYWHEEL TO CRANK……… 75-85 ft-lbs

EXHAUST MANIFOLD……….. 25-30 ft-lbs

WATER OUTLETS…………….. 12-15 ft-lbs

CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE…. 17-20 ft-lbs

BELLHOUSING TO BLOCK….. 37-42 ft-lbs

STARTER BOLTS……………… 15-20 ft-lbs

OE FUEL PUMP…………………   6-9 ft-lbs

GEN/ALTERNATOR BRACKET…55-70 ft-lbs

MY PARTS AND PART NUMBERS

Block…………………………Original 1949-1953 8BA

Crankshaft……………………Scat 286-9-239-4125-2000 (4.125” stroke)

Connecting rods………….….Scat 2-239-7000-2000 (7.000”)

Piston/pin set…………….… Egge EP994-8.125

Ring set (Total Seal)……….. Egge SRTCR6276-8

Valves (16) …………………  Egge S1821

(note: intake and exhaust valves are identical)

Valve springs (16) ………..…Egge VS651

Valve guides (16)  ………..…Egge G614

Adjustable lifters (16) …….…Egge VL36

Connecting rod bearings……..Egge CB610.000 (STD)

Main bearings (King) ………..Egge MBS3351SI.000 (STD)

Cam bearings…………………Egge F-1

Cam gear (Republic Gear Co.)  Egge TG2700

Crank gear (S.A. Gear)……… Egge TG2701

Oil pump (Melling)  …………Egge P-307 NEW

Gasket set (Best Gaskets) ……Egge RS521C

RH water pump ………………Egge WP-1231 NEW

LH water pump….……………Egge WP-1232 NEW

Camshaft (Isky)……………… 818800

Cylinder heads………………. Edelbrock 1115

Intake manifold……………… Edelbrock 1109

Carburetors…………………..  BG Demon 98

Distributor…………………… MSD 8573

Crank pulley………………….Fluidampr 600203

Alternator…………………….Tuff Stuff  7781A

Spark plug wires………………MSD 31229 (8.5mm, universal w/90-deg plug boots)

Velocity stacks………………..Eelco 6430

SOURCES FOR THIS FLATHEAD PROJECT

BEST GASKETS

11558 E. Washington Blvd., Suite F

Whittier, CA 90606

888-333-2378

www.bestgasket.com

BG FUEL SYSTEMS/BARRY GRANT

(Demon 98 carburetors)

1450 McDonald Rd.

Dahlonega, GA 30533

706-864-8544

www.barrygrant.com

BIRCHWOOD AUTOMOTIVE GROUP

(the author’s engine build & fabrication facility)

10205 Wooster Pike Rd.

Creston, OH 44217

330-435-6347

www.birchwoodautomotive.com

BOSCH MOTORSPORTS

(spark plugs)

2800 S. 25^th Ave.

Broadview, IL 60155

919-846-2115

www.boschusa.com

CWT INDUSTRIES

4708 S. Old Peachtree Rd., Unit 300

Norcross, GA 30071

800-449-1849

www.cwtindustries.com

EDELBROCK CORP.

(P/N 1115 cylinder heads and P/N 1109 intake manifold)

2700 California St.

Torrance, CA 90503

800-416-8628

www.edelbrock.com

EGGE MACHINE CO.

(pistons, main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings, gaskets, valves, valve guides, valve guide seals, valve springs, retainers, keepers, Melling oil pump, Isky cam and lifters, cam gear, crank gear, …….)

11707 Slauson

Sante Fe Springs, CA 90670

800-866-3443

www.egge.com

FLATHEAD JACK

1561 Third Ave.

Walnut Creek, CA 94597

888-993-2233

www.flatheadjack.com

FLUIDAMPR

180 Zoar Valley Rd.

Springville, NY 14141

716-592-1000

www.fluidampr.com

FRAGOLA PERFORMANCE SYSTEMS

888 W. Queen St.

Southington, CT 06489

866-337-2739

www.fragolaperformancesystems.com

GEARHEAD TOOLS

(TM Machine Products)

24773 Avenue Rockefeller

Valencia, CA 91355

800-733-4463

www.gearheadtools.com

G.L. HELLER CO.

(CNC machining…CNC lathe-cutting our pistons)

6246 Industrial Parkway

Whitehouse, OH 43571

419-877-5122

GOODSON TOOLS & SUPPLIES

(micrometers, burette, thread chasers, misc. tools)

156 Galewski Dr.

Winona, MN 55987

800-533-8010

www.goodson.com

GRESSMAN POWERSPORTS

(crankshaft balancing)

904 Lime St.

Fremont, OH 43420

419-355-8980

www.gressmanpowersports.com

H&H FLATHEADS

(cylinder head bolts, distributor clamp)

4451 Ramsdell Ave.

La Cresenta, CA 91214

818-248-2371

www.flatheads-forever.com

LENOVO

(engine room computer monitor)

1009 Think Place

Morrisville, NC 27560

866-426-4008

www.lenovo.com

LISTA INTERNATIONAL

(pro-level engine room cabinets and workbenches)

106 Lowland St.

Holliston, MA 01746

800-722-3020

www.listaintl.com

LUKE’S CUSTOM MACHINE & DESIGN

(crankshaft snout spacer, compatible with 1-pc front seal)

1457 Charlotte Rd.

North Vancouver, BC V7J1H1

604-980-8617

www.lukescustommachine.com

MAC TOOLS

(assorted hand tools)

505 N. Cleveland Ave.

Westerville, OH 43082

800-622-8665

www.mactools.com

MEDINA MOUNTAIN MOTORS

(block jet wash, flaw detection, align honing, cylinder boring/honing, decking)

199 Factory St.

P.O. Box 192

Creston, OH 44217

330-435-6236; 866-218-7467

www.medinamountainmotors.com

MELLING SELECT PERFORMANCE

P.O. Box 1188

Jackson, MI 49204

517-787-8172

www.melling.com

MSD IGNITION

(ready-to-install billet distributor, spark plug wires)

1490 Henry Brennan Dr.

El Paso, TX 79936-6805

915-857-5200

www.msdignition.com

PRW INDUSTRIES

193 West Orangethorpe Ave.

Placentia, CA 92870

714-792-1000

www.prw-usa.com

PUROLATOR FILTERS

(canister type oil filter cartridge)

3200 Natal St.

Fayetteville, NC 28306

800-526-4250

www.pureoil.com

ROYAL PURPLE LTD.

(Max Tuff assembly lubricant)

1 Royal Purple Ln.

Porter, TX 77365

888-382-6300

www.royalpurple.com

SCAT ENTERPRISES

(stroker crankshaft and forged rods)

1400 Kingsdale Ave.

Redondo Beach, CA 90278-3983

310-370-5501

www.scatcrankshafts.com

TOTALLY STAINLESS

(stainless steel fastener selection)

P.O. Box 3249

Gettysburg, PA 17325

800-767-4781

www.totallystainless.com

TUFF STUFF PERFORMANCE ACCESSORIES

(alternator)

9004 Madison Ave.

Cleveland, OH 44102

800-331-6562

www.tuffstuffperformance.com

SPECIAL THANKS:

I’d like to once again thank the shop equipment suppliers whose products make all of our engine build projects more efficient and more enjoyable whenever I work in my engine assembly clean-room: Lista’s cabinets/drawer system and workbenches, Goodson engine carts, Mac Tools hand-tools, Summit Racing’s piston ring filer and ring squaring tools, Gearhead Tool’s connecting rod vise, bore gauge and rod cap separator, CWT’s cylinder head center cabinet, Goodson micrometers, Fragola aluminum –AN wrenches, PRW’s balancer puller/installer tool, ARP piston ring compressors and the Lenovo flat-screen wall-mounted computer monitor.

Tags: 8BA, ARP, BEST GASKETS, BG, Birchwood, CWT, DISTRIBUTOR, EDELBROCK, EGGE, ENGINE BUILD, FLATHEAD, Flathead Jack, Fluidampr, FORD, FRAGOLA, G.L. HELLER, GearHead, GOODSON, GRESSMAN POWERSPORTS, H&H Flatheads, IGNITION, INTAKE MANIFOLD, Lenovo, LISTA, Luke's Custom Machine, Mac Tools, MEDINA MOUNTAIN MOTORS, MELLING, MSD, PROJECT ENGINE, PRW, ROYAL PURPLE, SCAT, SPARK PLUG WIRES, TOTALLY STAINLESS, TUFF STUFF

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