I’ve decided to have the water pumps and pulleys polished and chrome plated. This will provide additional visual appeal.
Engine build, text and photos by Mike Mavrigian
In this series installment, I’ll discuss final installation of the rods and pistons, the oil pump and pan, timing cover, water pumps and cylinder heads.
While I noted earlier that the engine was “done,” I’ve since decided to re-do the water pumps. The pumps (new units from Egge) are exact cast iron reproductions of the originals, with the exception of sealed shaft bearings (the originals featured bushings that required periodic oiling maintenance). After living with the black-painted rough-texture cast iron pumps for a while, I’ve decided to have the pumps and pulleys fully polished and triple-chrome plated. This will be performed by the folks at Tuff Stuff (the source for my chrome alternator). Tuff Stuff’s prep and chrome work (all performed in-house at their Cleveland manufacturing facility) is top-notch, show-quality, so I’m looking forward to slapping these mirror-like pumps back onto the block. The polished and chromed water pumps and pulleys will add some much-needed pizzazz and contrast to the front of this engine. The timing cover/distributor housing will remain in a black wrinkle powdercoat finish, to provide a nice contrast between the red block and chromed pumps.
INSTALLING RODS & PISTONS
Now that our piston domes have been CNC lathe-cut at G.L. Heller (refer to Part 2 of this series), it was time to perform final piston/rod installation. Before installing the rings, I first checked piston ring fit of each ring at each cylinder bore. Ideally, with our 3.3125” bore diameter, our top ring end gap should be about 0.015” and our second ring gap should be around 0.012”. Top ring gaps generally require about 0.0045” per inch of bore diameter; and second ring gap at about 0.0035” per inch of bore diameter.
The Egge pistons have been CNC lathe-cut at G.L. Heller to provide required head chamber clearance and have been test-fitted to each cylinder bore.
Our Total Seal rings were boxed for a 3.312” bore and were supposedly file-to-fit. However, upon checking, the tops had 0.027” gap and seconds had 0.015” gap. They were also mis-bagged (seconds were labeled for top location, some were marked for 0.100” and some at 0.125” oversize, but in fact all were the same. I didn’t really like the big gaps, so I purchased a set of Hastings rings designed for our +0.125” oversize bores, and they were livable. Top gaps were 0.019” and second ring gaps were 0.014”.
Instead of fit-checking the rings to one bore, I carefully fit each individual ring to all cylinder bores, recorded each finding, and then dedicated and organized a set of rings to specific cylinder locations to assure the best fit. All pistons, connecting rods, rings and rod bearings were carefully organized on my Lista workbench, with each group labeled per cylinder location.
The Scat forged H-beam connecting rods feature a standard 7.000″ length. Each rod has been checked for length and for pin-bore and big-end bore diameters.
Installing the Scat rods to the Egge pistons was a breeze. The wrist pins are full-floaters and are secured with C-clips (supplied with the Egge pistons). This style of clip is easy to install. Simply squeeze the inboard fingers with needle-nose pliers, insert into the piston pin bore and release the clip into its retaining groove. Rotate the clip around a bit to make sure that it’s fully seated in the groove.
Install one clip in one side of the piston pin bore. Next, lube the wrist pin (again, I prefer Royal Purple Max Tuff assembly lube) Insert the small end of the connecting rod into the piston underside between the pin bosses. With our pistons, there was no need to orient the piston-to-rod, since the piston design is symmetrical…direction in the bore won’t matter. Push the wrist pin into and through the rod small end bushing until the wrist pin stops against the pre-installed wire clip. Install the remaining clip on the opposite side of the wrist pin.
The Scat rods feature a beautiful fit & finish. No edge-softening or balancing corrections were needed. The H-beam design provides added strength, not that our little Flattie is going to produce monster power though.
The Scat forged rods feature bronze-bushed wrist pin bores and are designed for full-floating pins.
The side of the rod big end that features the larger chamfer faces the crank journal fillet.
Scat supplied ARP 3/8″ rod bolts for clamping precision. The ribbed caps provide added strength while reducing weight.
Egge is a great source for vintage engine components. Our rod bearings are new-old-stock Michigan bearings.
After test fitting each piston, rod and set of rings, all parts were organized per dedicated cylinder bore locations on my Lista workbench.
Piston wrist pins were coated with Royal Purple Max Tuff assembly lube. This stuff is super-slick and provides excellent “hang time.”
With a wire lock installed at one side of the piston pin bore, the connecting rod is positioned between the pin bosses while the pin is slid through the opposite pin bore and the rod pin bore.
Egge supplied wire locks for wrist pin retention.
The wire locks are easy to install. Inspect carefully after installation to make sure that the locks are fully engaged into their grooves.
These pistons are symmetrical, so orientation to the rod isn’t an issue.
Rings were carefully cleaned prior to installation. With ring gaps oriented to avoid line-up, each ring package was lightly doused with 30W oil.
Once the upper and lower rod bearings were installed to the rods and caps, the exposed surfaces were liberally coated with Royal Purple Max Tuff assembly lube. Note the locating dowel sleeves on the Scat rod cap.
The ARP rod bolts were coated with ARP moly lube on the threads and the underside of the bolt heads. Following Scat’s torque specifications, the moly lube provides more accurate (and consistent) rod bolt clamping.
With the rod cap in place and with both rod bolts finger-tight, tap the cap into full position with a plastic hammer instead of drawing the caps onto the rods during bolt tightening. This helps to assure that the rod cap dowels easily locate to the rods. Once the cap is tapped into place, evenly tighten the rod bolts to 45 ft-lbs. Maximum bolt stretch is 0.0047″. I monitored this using an ARP rod bolt stretch gauge.
Note that immediately prior to rod-to-piston assembly, I once again painstakingly cleaned each rod, piston, rod cap, rod bolt, rod bearings and each piston ring. I never assume that a previously cleaned component has remained clean while stored.
Install the upper rod bearing to the rod saddle (never lube the saddle or backside of the bearing…these surfaces must remain dry), aligning the locating notch and tang. Press firmly with clean fingers to verify full bearing seating. Make sure the ends of the bearings are even and flush with the rod cap mating surfaces.
The cylinder bores were final-checked for cleanliness (using a white non-lint paper towel, I carefully wiped each bore until the paper towels remained white, with no residue evident. I then oiled each cylinder wall, using 30W non-detergent oil. Using an adjustable piston ring compressor, the ring package was compressed and each rod/piston assembly was carefully slid into its bore until the rod’s upper bearing lightly contacted the crank rod journal. The rod cap (with bearing) was then located to the rod (with the chamfered side of the rod and cap facing the crank journal fillet). Each ARP rod bolt was coated (threads and head underside) with ARP moly lube and finger-tight installed. Instead of drawing the cap to the rod by tightening the rod bolts, I first tapped each rod cap into semi-final position using a clean plastic hammer. The ARP 8740 rod bolts (3/8” diameter x 1.600” long) were then tightened to a value of 45 ft-lbs. I checked rod bolt stretch during tightening, using a stretch gauge. Scat specifies that these rod bolts should not exceed a stretch of 0.0047”. After each journal’s pair of rods/pistons were installed, I rotated the crank to check smoothness of rotation and resistance. By checking each pair as you go (instead of waiting until all eight are installed), you can locate and identify a problem.
OIL PUMP AND PICKUP
I pre-lubed the new Melling oil pump with a combination of Royal Purple Max Tuff on the gears and filled the pump with 30W non-detergent oil and rotated the pump by hand several times to run the lubricant through the pump.
The oil pump is driven by an intermmediate gear (seen here at the left), which is driven by the camshaft’s rear drive gear. I mentioned this in Part 2 of this series.
The oil pump intermmediate gear and cam gear is covered by a rear cast iron plate, sealed with a gasket from Egge’s gasket kit and secured with five bolts. Be sure to apply thread locker to these bolts.
Melling’s oil pumps always feature outstanding fit and performance, and their flathead pump is no exception. This pump provided an exact-to-original fit.
Be sure to lube the oil pump gear before installing the pump.
Exploded view of the oil pump assembly. Courtesy Van Pelt Sales.
The oil pump is inserted into its bore located at the rear left side of the block.
The pump is secured with a single 5/16″ x 18 x 1″ bolt and loc washer.
View from the rear. Note the pickup mount on the inboard side of the pump.
The pump features a gear that engages to the idler gear installed earlier. Be sure to lube the pump gear before installing the pump.
I secured the pump to the block using a single 5/16” x 18 x 1” hex head grade 8 bolt, loc washer and thread locking compound on the bolt threads. The specification value is 15 ft-lbs for this bolt. However, you don’t have a straight shot at the bolt head, so a 2” extension was needed on the torque wrench.
Note: whenever you extend the length of a torque wrench, you’re adding leverage, so you must recalibrate in order to achieve the desired torque value. This isn’t difficult. Here’s the formula:
First measure the effective length of the torque wrench (center of the drive head, where the socket or extension at attached, to the center of the grip handle). For the torque wrench I used, this length was 14.5”.
In this particular case, I used a ½” straight extension wrench that has a center-to-center length of 2”. This will make my torque wrench 2” longer.
Length of torque wrench divided by the length of the torque wrench + the length of the extension X the desired torque value equals the altered torque wrench setting.
In this case,
14.5 divided by 14.5 + 2 X 15 = new torque wrench setting
14.5 divided by 16.5 X 15 = new torque wrench setting
0.87878 X 15 = 13.18 ft-lbs
In this case, I rounded the setting off to 13.5 ft-lbs on my micrometer style torque wrench.
I purchased a new oil pickup and pickup screen from Speedway Motors (I was told this would fit a center-sump oil pan). I test mounted the pickup the pump and test-fit my center-sump oil pan only to discover that it won’t clear the sump (the new pickup was too short and was designed for a rear-sump pan). Luckily, I still had the original (longer) pickup that matched my original center-sump oil pan. The lengths of the two pickup styles, just for your information, is as follows:
Center of pickup flange (pump mount flange) to the center of the pickup screen bucket of the rear-sump style is approximately 5”, while the length of my original center-sump style pickup is approximately 9”. Simply be aware that pickup lengths will vary depending on the style of your oil pan (sump location).
Since the pump body overhangs and limits access to the mounting bolt, an extension wrench is needed on the torque wrench. Whenever using an extension that effectively lengthens the torque wrench, you need to calculate the proper torque value setting for the torque wrench.
The shorter pickup (at top) is designed for a rear-sump oil pan. The longer pickup is intended for a center-sump pan.
The pickup screen is secured with a single wire clip.
The pickup tube attaches to the pump with two 1/4″ x 28 x 5/8″ bolts. The tube flange seals to the pump with a gasket from Egge’s gasket set.
This side view shows the pickup location suited for the center-sump oil pan.
I cleaned the pickup tube and housing thoroughly (hot tank, hot soapy water, flushed with solvent and flushed again with hot soapy water and then rinsed and air-flushed).
I mounted a new pickup screen (purchased from Speedway) to this original pickup with the original wire clip. I then mounted the pickup to the pump using a new gasket (both sides of the gasket light coated with RTV) and two ¼” x 28 x 5/8” hex head bolts (with loc washers and thread locking compound), and tightened both bolts to a value of 80 in-lbs.
As far as the oil pan was concerned, I discovered that apparently nobody makes a new replacement steel pan for the flathead, so I was forced to save my original pan.
First, I removed the original dipstick tube base (this was secured with three rivets). I cleaned, bead-blasted, primed and painted the dipstick tube and base satin black).
After hammering out a few major dents in the heavy-wall pan and finish-prepping with all-metal body filler and two coats of high-build primer (sanding each coat), we painted the pan with red basecoat and clear urethane clearcoat (same color and clear that we used on the block). I then re-mounted the dipstick tube and base using three 10×32 stainless steel button-head screws and low-profile nylon locking nuts and a new dipstick tube base gasket (thin coat of RTV on both sides of the gasket). Egge’s gasket set conveniently included this gasket (even though I was told by one flathead expert that this gasket doesn’t exist and that you need to make one). The end result of restoring this oil pan was spectacular. Better than new by a long shot.
Before mounting the oil pan, be sure to install the front seal bushing to the crank snout. The original style (seen here on the right) features spiral grooves and is designed to work with a original style rope seal. If using a one-piece rubber front seal, you’ll need a smooth-surface bushing (left). You can make one or purchase one from Luke’s Custom Machine.
To avoid messing around with a rope seal, Speedway offers a convenient one-piece front seal.
Restoring the original center-sump oil pan was no easy task, but it turned out great.
This is the core engine I started with. I initially thought that I’d be able to obtain a new pan, but was forced to save the original.
The original dipstick tube assembly was rivited to the pan. I cut off the rivets, restored the tube assembly and installed using a gasket from the Egge kit and three 10×32 stainless steel button-head screws and stainless nyloc nuts.
The pan was test-fitted for bolt hole alignment and front and rear seal alignment.
The oil pan was secured with stainless steel SHCS (socket head cap screws) from Totally Stainless. All exterior fasteners (with the exception of the head bolts) were provided in packaged kit form from Totally Stainless.
Totally Stainless offers a complete flathead fastener system, in stainless steel, with choices of hex head, SHCS and button head.
The Egge-supplied gasket set is very complete.
The very complete Egge gasket kit included two pan rail gaskets and the rear main seal set. The lower rear main seal (square-profile flexible braided rope) was fitted to the pan’s rear main seal groove and trimmed at each end, leaving about 0.025” exposed above the pan rail surface. The rail gaskets required slight trimming. The front of each gasket was notched to capture the front rubber crank seal, and the rear of each gasket was trimmed to clear the rear main seal ends.
The rail gaskets were positioned, temporarily using several 5/16×18 studs for location purpose. A small dab of RTV was applied at each end of the rail gaskets (both sides). The pan was then lowered onto the studs. Once the pan was seated, I installed the Totally Stainless oil pan bolts (stainless steel socket head cap screws and flat washers), removing studs as I progressed. I initially tightened all cap screws to a value of 60 in-lbs. This is sufficient to seat the pan and to allow the RTV to spread and cure. Once the RTV has fully cured, I’ll re-torque the screws to a value of 12 ft-lbs (spec calls for 10-15 ft-lbs).
The Edelbrock aluminum cylinder heads (P/N 1115) are beautifully cast and CNC machined (I suspect much more precisely machined than Ford’s original cast iron pieces). Absolutely no modifications were needed to these heads. They were truly ready-to-bolt-on examples.
The block decks were carefully cleaned to remove any residual oil from the deck surfaces.
Instead of using OE type copper head gaskets, I chose Best Gasket’s large-bore composite gaskets to accommodate my +0.125″ bore size.
Edelbrock’s P/N 1115 aluminum cylinder heads are precision cast and CNC machined in the firm’s U.S. facility.
The Edelbrock heads featured a high degree of precision machining. These were truly bolt-on pieces that required no muss and no fuss. I checked each chamber volume using a Goodson burette, with each chamber vlume an identical match.
The Best head gaskets also provided a perfect fit in terms of all bolt hole, chamber and coolant passage alignments. Remember that the flathead cylinder head gaskets are side-specific.
After cleaning the block’s head decks of oil, the Best Gaskets’ large-bore composite head gaskets were carefully positioned on the decks (the flathead requires dedicated RH and LH gaskets). In order to maintain alignment, I temporarily installed a few 7/16” x 14 studs in the block decks. The heads were carefully lowered over the guide studs. After a handful of head bolts were finger-installed, I removed the studs.
Head bolts feature a 7/16” diameter, with a 14 pitch. The hex bolt heads require the use of an 11/16” wrench.
With the new head bolt threads and bolt-head-undersides coated with ARP moly, thick head bolt washers were installed to the bolts (the bolts were obtained from H&H Flatheads, and the washers were obtained from Totally Stainless).
All 24 head bolts (on each head) were tightened in three stages, starting with 25 ft-lbs, then 45 ft-lbs and a final 60 ft-lb value, following Edelbrock’s recommended tightening sequence.
The flathead 8BA features 24 bolts per cylinder head. Considering that I torqued the bolts in several steps, this was rather time consuming. Don’t plan on hurrying.
OE head bolt tightening sequence. Courtesy Van Pelt Sales
The appearance of the Edelbrock heads harken back to the early days of hot rod mods for a nice vintage look. However, Edelbrock now takes davantage of modern casting technology and precise CNC machining. These heads are knock-down gorgeous.
I installed the popular chrome acorn bolt head covers, primarily at this point just for the sake of photos. It’s wise to delay installing these covers until after the engine has run and the head bolts have been re-torqued. Honestly, I wasn’t very impressed with the fit of the Speedway acorn covers on the H&H head bolts (way too tight).
This is just a teaser shot. I’ll discuss my spark plug wire routing in the next article (in Part 4).
Note: Strictly for the sake of appearance, I installed s set of chrome acorn covers onto the head bolt heads. These popular dress-up items help to provide a finished look for any flathead. However, the inexpensive set I purchased from Speedway (sized for 11/16” bolt heads) provided an extremely tight fit (requiring big swings with a rubber mallet). If the head bolts require re-torquing (which they will after the first few engine runs), these decorative covers must be removed to provide wrench clearance. They fit so tight that they’ll likely be destroyed during removal. H&H Flatheads offers a much nicer set of chrome acorn covers (they’re pricey, but probably worth the extra dough).
The only reason that I installed the covers at this point was for photos. In reality, you should wait until after initial running and after re-torquing.
TIMING COVER/DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING
There are two different timing cover/distributor housings that apply to the full-size distributor (not the early pancake distributor), including the cast iron 8BA-6059 housing and the OBA-6059-A aluminum housing. The type of housing needed will be based on the distributor you choose.
My timing cover/distributor housing is the cast iron version. I cleaned the unit, deburred and dressed, and had it powdercoated in a black wrinkle finish. Note the timing pointer built into the housing. Be careful when installing this housing. The rear features a flange lip that registers into the front of the block. If not fully seated, it’s easy to crack the housing during bolt tightening. I applied a thin film of RTV to both sides of the cover gasket.
The timing cover/distributor housing may be installed after the oil pan has been installed. The radiused groove at the bottom of the timing cover captures the top half of the front seal. This photo shows the cover, LH water pump and crank pulley installed.
I chose a crankshaft pulley from Fluidampr. This is a two-groove chromed unit that’s zero-balanced (we internally balanced our crank).
The crankshaft pulley features two belt grooves (our setup uses the 3/8″-wide belt). The rear groove outer diameter measures 6.097″ and the front groove O.D. measures 5.285″. If you wish to run a single belt, groove choice will depend on your water pump pulley setup.
If using the MSD Pro-Billet Ready To Run distributor P/N 8573 along with the MSD drive gear, you’ll need the cast iron cover (Ford P/N 8BA-6059, used on the 1949-1950 engines). If you buy the MSD distributor but already have the aluminum housing, you can use the Ford gear #12390 (1951-53) or 12390-C (1949-50). In other words, depending on which drive gear you have, you can use either cover. If you use the MSD-supplied gear with their distributor, you need the cast iron cover.
Note: the original distributor hold-down clamp (Ford #12270 from 1949-53) won’t work on the MSD distributor because of the larger diameter of the billet aluminum shaft housing. You can make one or buy a clamp from H&H Flatheads (or from Luke’s Custom Machine & Design at 604-980-8617).
Note: I’ll cover installation of the MSD billet distributor, along with spark plug routing, in the next article (Part 4).
The timing cover/distributor housing is attached to the block face with five 5/16”x18 x 1” stainless steel SHCS (socket head cap screws), using a kit from Totally Stainless. Before mounting the timing cover, I applied a bead of RTV to the radius pocket for the front crank seal (since I’m using a one-piece rubber front seal). This fills any voids between the seal O.D. and the timing cover seal pocket. I also applied a thin bead of RTV to both sides of the timing cover gasket. The female threaded holes in the block are blind, so there’s no need to seal the threads from an oil leak standpoint, but I applied a drop of Valco thread locker to each bolt’s threads in addition to the stainless loc washers from the Totally Stainless kit. The timing cover bolts were snugged to a value of 15 ft-lbs.
Aside from main cap bolts and head bolts, I’m using an array of stainless SHCS kits from Totally Stainless. Their kits are very well packaged, in labeled sealed bags. Their kits (timing cover, oil pan, water pump, etc.) are very well organized, all bolt diameters, thread pitches and shank lengths are correct, and all kits include any necessary loc and/or flat washers. I also used their crankshaft damper bolt, which is a high-strength stainless hex headed bolt featuring a 5/8”x18 x 1” shank, along with a high-strength stainless flat washer. I highly recommend Totally Stainless fastener kits. They do a nice job. They also offer a choice in head styles (hex, 12-point and SHCS). Each fastener kit package that I used was absolutely correct (correct diameters, thread pitch, length and quantity).
The flathead 8BA features twin water pumps (one at each side of the block face). For this build, I used new (not rebuilt) pumps from Egge. Each pump is mounted with four 3/8”x16 bolts, one of which enters through the lower radiator hose neck (don’t forget this one!). I applied RTV to each side of the Egge pump gaskets, and (even though the bolt holes in the block are blind) I also applied a dot of thread locker to the bolt threads for additional security, in addition to the Totally Stainless loc washers. All of these 3/8” bolts were tightened to 25 ft-lbs (spec is 23-28 ft-lbs).
My water pumps (from Egge) are faithful replicas of the originals, except for the shaft bearings. These pumps feature encased bearings, while the originals offered bushings that required periodic lubrication. The water pump bodies also serve as the front engine mounts. These pumps feature angled mounts, while other versions feature horizontal mounts.
While pump shafts are the same length, the original design featured different offset and diameter pulleys. The original styles are shown here. The RH pulley (seen here in the photo’s left side) features a zero offset and an outer diameter of about 4.084″. The LH pulley (seen here on the right) features an offset that kicks back toward the block and an outer diameter of about 4.763″. If you intend to run a single belt, either use RH pulleys on both pumps and use the front crank pulley groove, or use LH pulleys on both pumps, the the rear crank pulley groove. Note that when servicing these pulleys, the interference fit to the shaft is about 0.0035″ to 0.004″.
This rear view of a water pump shows the impeller, which seats into the water passage in the block face.
The lower hose neck of each water pump features a mounting bolt location. This is easy to overlook. Be sure to use a stainless steel bolt here. These bolt hole locations are not centered at the base of the neck, so access can be tricky. The use of a SHCS definitely helps (using a hex bit provides easier access than a socket wrench).
This view shows both water pumps installed. As I mentioned earlier, I plan to have both pumps and pump pulleys polished and chrome plated.
Tip: Start the lower bolt (which enters through the base of the lower hose neck) first, then start the remaining bolts. Only once all four bolts have been started in their threads, then begin to tighten in an even pattern to the final torque value. If you install the upper two and center bolts first, you may have difficulty in aligning the lower (inside the hose neck) bolt.
Polished aluminum and chromed pumps are available (as well as polished aluminum pulleys), but I opted to use the stock replacement type pumps, painted in a low-gloss black, primarily to reduce build cost. The understated black wrinkle finish powdercoated timing cover, along with the black water pumps, provide a nicely understated contrast against the bright red block.
As I mentioned earlier in this article, I’ve since decided to have both pump bodies and pulleys fully polished and chrome plated at Tuff Stuff’s Cleveland manufacturing facility.
Note: The original style water pump pulleys feature different pulley diameters and offsets. The LH pulley offset places the belt groove closer to the block than the RH pump pulley. In order to run a single belt, I removed the RH water pump pulley and installed a LH pulley to the RH pump. In this way, both water pump pulleys feature the same offset, which aligns both pump pulleys to the rear belt groove on both the crank pulley and alternator pulley. Removing the original pulley from the RH pump was fairly easy, using a 3-jaw puller. The measured interference fit of pulley to pump shaft was 0.0035”. I removed the RH pump from the block and pressed the new LH pulley onto the RH pump shaft, with the shaft impeller resting on a flat base to avoid damaging the pump seals.
I purchased the replacement cast iron pulley from Mac’s Antique Auto Parts. Cost was about $20.00, with an additional $2 for a new pump gasket.
Note: Your choice of distributor will dictate the water pump pulley selection. By installing LH pulleys on both pumps, this placed the belt in line with the rear crankshaft pulley groove and closer to the block. If your distributor features a vacuum advance housing, this may create a belt interference with the vacuum advance. Since I removed the vacuum advance from my MSD distributor (and used MSD’s supplied advance lockout kit), I was able to use the rear crank pulley groove and the set-back LH water pump pulleys. If you do encounter an interference of belt-to-distributor, simply install RH pulleys on both pumps, and use the front groove on the crank pulley. The RH pulleys feature less offset and place the belt further away from the block, aligned to the rear groove on the crank pulley.
I’ll discuss the alternator setup in an upcoming article.
In the next build article (Part 4), I’ll discuss setup and installation of the MSD distributor, Edelbrock triple-deuce intake manifold, and spark plug wire routing.
CRANK & ROD CLEARANCE
SPECS & RESULTS
Main bearing clearance………….0.000” to 0.003”
Crank endplay…………………..0.002” to 0.006”
Rod bearing clearance…………..0.0005” to 0.003”
Rod side clearance………………0.006” to 0.020”
MY MEASURED RESULTS
Main bearing clearance………….0.0025”
Rod bearing clearance……………0.002”
Rod side clearance……………….0.020”
3.1875 X 3.1875 X 3.750 X 0.7854 X 8 CYL = 239 CID
MY BORE SIZE…………………3.3125 (+0.125”)
3.3125 X 3.3125 X 4.125 X 0.7854 X 8 CYL = 284.39 CID
(right bank, front to rear cyls 1-2-3-4; left bank, front to rear cyls 5-6-7-8)
(distributor rotation: clockwise)
PISTON TO WALL CLEARANCE…………0.003”
PISTON RING GAPS
OE…………Top 0.007 min, 2nd 0.007 min, oil rail 0.015 min
OUR RINGS….Top 0.019”, 2nd 0.014”, oil rail 0.015
FASTENER TORQUE VALUES
MAIN BOLTS……………..……105 ft-lbs
ROD BOLTS……………..……..45 ft-lbs (w/ARP moly) (stretch not to exceed 0.0047”)
(our rod bolts are ARP 8740 3/8” dia. x 1.600” shank length)
CYL HEAD BOLTS……….……60 ft-lbs (in three steps)
(60 ft-lbs per Edelbrock. OE spec is 65-70)
WATER PUMPS……………….. 23-28 ft-lbs
CAMSHAFT TIMING GEAR…..15-20 ft-lbs
INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS….12 ft-lbs, followed by a final 24 ft-lbs
TIMING COVER…………………13-18 ft-lbs
OIL PUMP TO BLOCK………….12-15 ft-lbs
OIL PUMP COVER PLATE…….. 7-10 ft-lbs
OIL PUMP PICKUP……………..80 in-lbs
OIL PAN………………………… 15-18 ft-lbs
FLYWHEEL TO CRANK……… 75-85 ft-lbs
EXHAUST MANIFOLD……….. 25-30 ft-lbs
WATER OUTLETS…………….. 12-15 ft-lbs
CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE…. 17-20 ft-lbs
BELLHOUSING TO BLOCK….. 37-42 ft-lbs
STARTER BOLTS……………… 15-20 ft-lbs
OE FUEL PUMP………………… 6-9 ft-lbs
GEN/ALTERNATOR BRACKET…55-70 ft-lbs
Note: This engine build project was performed, as are all of our engine projects, at the author’s custom shop, Birchwood Automotive Group, in Creston, Ohio. All build and photo work is routinely handled at this location, utilizing our clean engine assembly room, outfitted with Lista professional-grade cabinets and workbenches.
MY PARTS AND PART NUMBERS
Block…………………………Original 1949-1953 8BA
Crankshaft……………………Scat 286-9-239-4125-2000 (4.125” stroke)
Connecting rods………….….Scat 2-239-7000-2000 (7.000”)
Piston/pin set…………….… Egge EP994-8.125
Ring set (Total Seal)……….. Egge SRTCR6276-8
Valves (16) ………………… Egge S1821
(note: intake and exhaust valves are identical)
Valve springs (16) ………..…Egge VS651
Valve guides (16) ………..…Egge G614
Adjustable lifters (16) …….…Egge VL36
Connecting rod bearings……..Egge CB610.000 (STD)
Main bearings (King) ………..Egge MBS3351SI.000 (STD)
Cam bearings…………………Egge F-1
Cam gear (Republic Gear Co.) Egge TG2700
Crank gear (S.A. Gear)……… Egge TG2701
Oil pump (Melling) …………Egge P-307 NEW
Gasket set (Best Gaskets) ……Egge RS521C
RH water pump ………………Egge WP-1231 NEW
LH water pump….……………Egge WP-1232 NEW
Camshaft (Isky)……………… 818800
Cylinder heads………………. Edelbrock 1115
Intake manifold……………… Edelbrock 1109
Carburetors………………….. BG Demon 98
Distributor…………………… MSD 8573
Crank pulley………………….Fluidampr 600203
Alternator…………………….Tuff Stuff 7781A
Spark plug wires………………MSD 31229 (8.5mm, universal w/90-deg plug boots)
Velocity stacks………………..Eelco 6430
SOURCES FOR THIS FLATHEAD PROJECT
11558 E. Washington Blvd., Suite F
Whittier, CA 90606
BG FUEL SYSTEMS/BARRY GRANT
(Demon 98 carburetors)
1450 McDonald Rd.
Dahlonega, GA 30533
BIRCHWOOD AUTOMOTIVE GROUP
(the author’s engine build & fabrication facility)
10205 Wooster Pike Rd.
Creston, OH 44217
2800 S. 25th Ave.
Broadview, IL 60155
4708 S. Old Peachtree Rd., Unit 300
Norcross, GA 30071
(P/N 1115 cylinder heads and P/N 1109 intake manifold)
2700 California St.
Torrance, CA 90503
EGGE MACHINE CO.
(pistons, main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings, gaskets, valves, valve guides, valve guide seals, valve springs, retainers, keepers, Melling oil pump, Isky cam and lifters, cam gear, crank gear, …….)
Sante Fe Springs, CA 90670
1561 Third Ave.
Walnut Creek, CA 94597
180 Zoar Valley Rd.
Springville, NY 14141
FRAGOLA PERFORMANCE SYSTEMS
888 W. Queen St.
Southington, CT 06489
(TM Machine Products)
24773 Avenue Rockefeller
Valencia, CA 91355
G.L. HELLER CO.
(CNC machining…CNC lathe-cutting our pistons)
6246 Industrial Parkway
Whitehouse, OH 43571
GOODSON TOOLS & SUPPLIES
(our micrometers, burette, thread chasers, misc. tools)
156 Galewski Dr.
Winona, MN 55987
GREBER POWDER COATING
313 Clark St.
Elyria, OH 44035-6105
(full machine shop services)
904 Lime St.
Fremont, OH 43420
(variety of flathead components)
4451 Ramsdell Ave.
La Cresenta, CA 91214
(engine room computer monitor)
1009 Think Place
Morrisville, NC 27560
(pro-level engine room cabinets and workbenches)
106 Lowland St.
Holliston, MA 01746
LUKE’S CUSTOM MACHINE & DESIGN
(variety of custom flathead components)
1457 Charlotte Rd.
North Vancouver, BC V7J1H1
(my shop’s assorted hand tools)
505 N. Cleveland Ave.
Westerville, OH 43082
MEDINA MOUNTAIN MOTORS
(full machine shop services)
199 Factory St.
P.O. Box 192
Creston, OH 44217
MELLING SELECT PERFORMANCE
P.O. Box 1188
Jackson, MI 49204
(our ready-to-install billet distributor, spark plug wires)
1490 Henry Brennan Dr.
El Paso, TX 79936-6805
193 West Orangethorpe Ave.
Placentia, CA 92870
(canister type oil filter cartridge)
3200 Natal St.
Fayetteville, NC 28306
ROYAL PURPLE LTD.
(Max Tuff assembly lubricant)
1 Royal Purple Ln.
Porter, TX 77365
(stroker crankshaft and forged rods)
1400 Kingsdale Ave.
Redondo Beach, CA 90278-3983
(stainless steel fastener selection)
P.O. Box 3249
Gettysburg, PA 17325
TUFF STUFF PERFORMANCE ACCESSORIES
9004 Madison Ave.
Cleveland, OH 44102
VAN PELT SALES & SERVICE
4525 Bells Ave. #135
Cincinnati, OH 45244
Tags: 8BA, ARP, BEARINGS, BEST GASKETS, CONNECTING ROD, CYLINDER HEADS, EDELBROCK, EGGE, ENGINE BUILD, FLATHEAD, Fluidampr, FORD, G.L. HELLER, ISKY, LISTA, MELLING, MSD, OIL PAN, OIL PUMP, PISTONS, PROJECT ENGINES, TOTALLY STAINLESS, TUFF STUFF, WATER PUMPS