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Sign up for our E-newsletterText and photos by Mike Mavrigian
The oil filter base (located on the forward left side of the block) features two ports and four bolt holes. A base gasket must be used for sealing between the adapter and the block. This gasket bwas included in our Victor gasket set.The gasket will only align in one orientation. If holes are misaligned, you have the gasket in the wrong position. I applied a thin film of Permatex The Right Stuff RTV to the block side of the gasket prior to installation.
The 427 FE side oiler block allows the use of either an adapter than accepts a direct spin-on oil filter, or a remote base filter adapter, allowing remote-mounting of the filter. The remote base of shown here. This adapter features two 1/2″ NPT ports and one 1/8″ NPT port. The 1/2″ ports accept hose fittings, while the 1/8″ NPT port provides a convenient location for the oil pressure sender line.
This remote filter adapter is a cast aluminum piece. It mounts with four 5/16″ x 18 socket head cap screws (the bolt holes are round and recessed, so hex head bolts won’t work). Apply thread locker compound to the bolt threads, and tighten to about 25 ft-lbs. This adapter features two clearly-marked IN/OUT ports for hose hookups.
This photo more clearly shows the location of the remote adapter.
In preparation for future remote oil filter plumbing, I installed a pair of 1/2″ NPT to -10 AN male/male adapters, sealing the NPT threads with Teflon joint compound. Note: thread compound is preferred over Teflon tape. If tape is used, extreme care is needed to avoid stray tape material from entering the ports, which could contaminate the oil system. Prior to plumbing (on dyno or in-car), it’s advisable to seal the adapters with plastic caps to avoid contamination.
In addition to the -10 caps, you’ll also need to install a temporary plastic or aluminum plug in the 1/8″ NPT port. Never leave oil ports open during engine storage. Remove the caps only when ready for final engine installation.
CAM TIMING
Using a steel billet double-roller chain set from JP Performance, I first test-fit the crank and cam gears. The cam gear (unlike the OE sprocket) features an offset on the rear (to eliminate the need for a spacer to establish camshaft endplay). However, when checked with a dial indicator, I measured an on-the-tight-side 0.003” endplay. I then milled off 0.002” from the rear of the cam gear (the contact area on the gear rear face that contacts the cam retainer plate), for a healthier 0.005” cam endplay. A too-tight endplay could potentially result in metal-to-metal contact under operating temperature if the cam length extends due to operating heat.
While an original equipment cam sprocket may feature a flat rear face (which would require the use of a spacer on the cam snout to achieve proper camshaft endplay), this aftermarket sprocket features a machined step that contacts the cam snout face, so no spacer was required. However, always check camshaft endplay to determine if modification is needed. If insufficient endplay is found, a spacer shim may be needed between the sprocket and cam snout, or the recessed rear face of the sprocket may be machined to remove material, in order to achieve correct endplay. If endplay is excessive, a shim washer may be needed on the recessed shoulder of the rear of the sprocket.
Here we check camshaft endplay with the cam gear installed. Initially we had only 0.003″ endplay, which I felt was too tight. I machined 0.002″ from the sprocket’s rear shoulder to achieve an acceptable 0.005″ endplay.
After positioning an eccentric cup (to drive a mechanical fuel pump) onto the cam nose, the cam gear and eccentric were secured to the cam nose with a single grade 8 7/16” x 14 x 1.75” hex head bolt, with threads coated with locking compound and snugged to 40 ft-lbs.
After a pair of woodruff keys were installed at the rear section of the crank snout, the crank gear was installed, followed by the original oil slinger.
Note: if an OE Ford cam sprocket is to be used, this will likely feature a flat rear mating surface. If so, a spacer is needed between the cam nose and the rear of the sprocket. If the cam sprocket to be used features a protruding rear base, no additional spacer is needed. This offset (provided by a spacer or by the design of the cam sprocket) establishes the camshaft endplay.
Test-fit the crank gear for proper fit onto the crank snout. On a Ford FE application, the fit should be snug, and ideally installation should be accomplished by hand using firm force. This aftermarket crank gear offers several cam timing locations (the gear is multi-keyed). For starters, I set this gear at the zero position, with no advance or retard.
Once the timing chain is installed and the timing cover is in place (the timing cover is gasketed to the block face and a new crank seal has been installed in the cover), an OE steel spacer slips onto the crank snout. This spacer is sandwiched between the face of the crank gear and the crank balancer. The spacer’s outer surface rides against the timing cover’s crank snout seal. Note: if the outer surface of the spacer is worn or pitted, a thin stainless steel cover can be installed onto the spacer to provide a fresh surface for seal contact. A single keyway inside the spacer’s bore engages onto the forward woodruff key that protrudes out from the front ofn the crank gear. Once the spacer is installed, a 1/4″ square key is then installed into the front nose of the crank snout. The square key will register the balancer.
When positioning the head gaskets, remember that the large vertical water jacket hole on the gasket must align with the rear water jacket hole in the block.
The Victor MLS (multi-layer steel) head gaskets are conveniently marked “FRONT” to help avoid improper gasket orientation. Pay attention to this.
ROLLER ROCKER SHAFT SYSTEM
This style of performance aftermarket shaft rocker system for the Ford FE must be shimmed at each side of each rocker in order to center the rocker’s roller tip to the valve stem tip (this is normal). The PRW kit included three packs of round washer-style shims, in 0.015”, 0.030” and 0.055” thicknesses. With a rocker shaft setup mounted to the head, each rocker position was carefully centered to its corresponding valve tip while partially slipping shim combinations between the rockers and the rocker shaft spacers. To record the shim requirements, I made shim thickness notations directly onto the rockers, using a black Sharpie pen. The rocker setup is then removed from the head and completely disassembled, then reassembled by installing the appropriate shims during reassembly. It’s a time consuming process, but it’s necessary in order to achieve a tailor-fit assembly. This aftermarket design is a definite plus, as it allows you to tailor-fit each rocker’s alignment with its valve tip.
Why use the antiquated Ford shaft rocker system when vastly superior aftermarket systems are readily available? We chose a way-cool billet roller-rocker shaft setup from PRW.
The PRW shaft rocker system features everything you need, including adjustable ball tips, rocker alignment spacers, rocker stand studs, and even a pair of adjustable pushrod checkers (for determining correct pushrod length).
By the way, PRW’s customer service is very impressive. Super-nice folks to deal with, and they’re readily available to answer any questions. I needed a few extra shims, and after a quick phone call (you can actually reach these guys directly without being placed on hold by a computer), I received them promptly.
On the FE, the rocker shafts receive oil from an oiling port that feeds from the block and up through the head (one port per head). Each of these oil ports intersects one of the rocker stand stud holes. PRW supplies two special undercut studs (one per head) that allow oil to pass upwards along the stud, to deliver oil to the rocker shaft, which in turn delivers oil to the rockers.
Note: When assemblying the shaft systems, note that each shaft features a series of small oil holes on one side. When performing assembly, make sure that the shaft’s oil holes are facing downward.
On this build, we’re using Ford OE cast iron medium riser cylinder heads. Each cylinder head features an oil entry port that shares one rocker stand stud hole. Note the milled oil path recess that joins the stud hole.
Our Ford medium riser heads feature 89cc chambers.
All of our cylinder head bolts are ARP high tensile strength bolts. The threads and underside of the bolt heads must be lubricated with oil or ARP moly lube. I chose to use ARP’s moly lube. This reduces friction during tightening, providing a much more accurate achievement and monitoring of clamping load.
The head bolts were torqued to a final value of 95 ft-lbs (ARP’s specification when the bolts are lubed with their moly assembly lube), in three progressive and equal steps. The specifics of head installation are discussed later in this article, but it is necessary to install the heads at this time in order to test fit and adjust the rocker shaft system.
Note the oil delivery port at this rocker stand boss. Each head features thios port, designed to deliver oil to the rocker shafts. It’s critical to examine these ports to ensure an unobstructed oil path.
This closeup of a head’s rocker shaft oil port shows a #65 jet that was installed to control oil flow. This is a recommended modification for most FE builds.
The PRW rocker stand studs are snugged into the heads, with lower threads treated with thread locking compound. Do not over-tighten these studs. The stud upper tips are slotted, allowing use of a screwdriver to snug the studs in place. Each head’s rocker shaft oiling port stud location requires an undercut stud (reduced diameter of the stud at this location). This allows oil to pass from the delivery port, up along the stud, to the shaft.
The PRW rocker shaft system (for each head) consists of a hardened shaft, four shaft stands, eight roller-tipped aluminum rockers and three billet aluminum spacer bushings. In order to achieve correct rocker tip to valve alignment, adjuster shims must be placed between the stands and rockers, and between the billet spacer bushings and rockers. The kit includes a selection of 0.015″, 0.030″ and 0.055″-thick shims.
During test fitting, with a rocker shaft assembly placed on a head, I used a feeler gauge and made notes regarding required spacers, directly on the rockers using a Sharpie pen. This helps to keep track of shim locations during disassembly/reassembly of the rocker system. PRW recommends a minimum of 0.005″ clearance at each rocker. If too tight, oiling will be insufficient and galling may occur. If too loose, the rockers will clatter and may move off of the ideal valve tip sweep center.
Each rocker shaft features a series of small oiling holes (these deliver oil to the rocker pivots). These oiling holes must face downward (facing the head) when the assembly is installed. Pay attention to this!
Rockers must be adjusted (via shims) to locate each roller tip centered onto its corresponding valve tip.
Our PRW roller rocker shaft assemblies, alignment-shimmed and ready for final installation. Take your time when shimming and measuring. Expect to repeat the process of measuring, removing, disassembly, shimming, reassembly and re-installation a number of times. Patience is a virtue, so take your time and get it right.
The rocker adjuster balls feature a 3/8″ diameter. Lube the threads with moly before installation.
One of the nice features of the PRW shaft rocker system is that each anodized stand is clearly numbered for cylinder location. This prevents potential mixups during future service, since each bank of shaft mounted rockers must be shimmed in order to achieve correct centering of each roller rocker tip to its corresponding valve tip.
PRW recommends immersing the roller rocker tips in oil for 3 hours prior to final installation. This insures that oil migrates into the roller tip bearing axles.
DETERMINING PUSHROD LENGTH
PRW conveniently provides a pair of checking adjustable pushrods in the kit. These adjustable pushrods feature three body sections (threaded together), and thread-adjustable upper cups and lifter tips. With a lifter in place and with that cam rotated to place the lifter on the lobe’s base circle, adjust the checker pushrod until zero lash is achieved.
After degreeing the camshaft, I mocked-up the cylinder heads to begin measuring for required pushrod length, to determine shim-spacing the rockers for proper vale tip centering, and to check valvetrain geometry.
Our PRW shaft roller rocker system (a very impressive kit, by the way) mounts to the cylinder heads with supplied 5/16” stand studs and nuts. Using the adjustable pushrod checkers (also supplied with the kit), I determined that our intakes required a pushrod length of 9.215”, while the exhaust pushrods required a length of 9.270”. Both measurements are BOC (bottom of cup) lengths. This represents the length from the base of the upper cup to the bottom tip.
Before removing the checking pushrod, place matchmarks on the pushrod body at the section-to-section mating areas. This will provide a reference in case you accidentally rotate the pushrod sections during handling.
Since we can never assume that a “stock” length pushrod will accommodate any build, we need to take the time to measure for proper pushrod length. With a PRW rocker shaft assembly installed on a head (with head installed), rotate the crank until No. 1 exhaust lifter is on its camshaft base circle. Using an adjustable checking pushrod (conveniently supplied in the PRW rocker shaft kit), install the checker pushrod with its radius tip resting in the lifter bowl and the cup end facing the rocker’s adjustable ball stud. Turn the rocker’s adjuster until 1 – 1 /2 threads are exposed under the rocker arm body. Adjust the checking pushrod (rotate the threaded sections to lengthen) until you achieve zero lash between the rocker roller and the valve stem tip. Use a Sharpie or other marker to make matchmarks on the pushrod checker sections. Without disturbing the checker length, unthread the rocker’s ball adjuster to remove the checking pushrod. Carefully measure the pushrod using a long caliper. You’ll need to take two measurements. First measure overall length (top edge of the cup to the bottom tip of the pushrod, and note this length. Next, insert a 5/16” ball into the pushrod’s upper cup and now measure the overall length from the outside of the ball to the lower tip of the pushrod and note this length. Next, subtract the ball diameter (0.3125”) from this overall length. The result is the BOC length (bottom of cup to tip).
Depending on what manufacturer you order your pushrods from, they’ll want either the overall length or the BOC length (BOC is more accurate).
Perform this same measurement check at No. 1 intake location. It’s advisable to perform these pushrod length measurements at least twice to make sure that you haven’t made a mistake along the way.
Measuring the length of a cup-type pushrod can be tricky when trying to compensate for the radius of the cup. The best approach is to insert a 5/16″ diameter precision ball into the cup, and then measure from the outside of the ball to the bottom pushrod tip. Then deduct the ball diameter from the overall measurement. This provides the BOC (bottom of cup) to tip measurement that the pushrod maker can then duplicate. Precision steel balls are readily available from shop supply sources such as McMaster Carr and others.
Custom-length pushrods may be ordered in a variety of diameters, wall thickness and lengths, as well as upper and lower contact end styles. In our case, we ordered our intake and exhaust pushrods in 3/8” O.D., 0.080” wall thickness and chromoly tubing, from Trend. Our intake pushrods required a BOC length of 9.215” and our exhaust pushrods have a BOC length of 9.270” (while our Comp Cams solid flat-tappet cam’s intake and exhaust lifts are identical, the variance was our installed valve tip heights. Never assume that all intake and exhaust pushrod lengths will be identical. Always measure both intake and exhaust separately). Other variables that will affect pushrod length include block deck height, cylinder head thickness, rocker design, lifter design and cam base circle.
Our upper pushrod cups will feature cups that accept a 3/8” ball (the PRW adjuster balls are 3/8” diameter). Our bottom tips feature a 5/16” ball tip to accommodate our Comp Cams lifters that are designed for 5/16” tips. I can’t say enough about Trend’s service. They made our pushrods to our exact required lengths, and the turnaround time was incredibly quick. I ordered them (via phone) on a Wednesday, and I received them Friday of the same week. Trend Performance Products can be reached at 810-447-0400.
I measured our checking pushrods (with a 5/16″ ball inserted into the upper cup) using a long-scale digital caliper. If you plan to order custom pushrods routinely, investing in a long caliper makes sense.
Our custom-length 3/8″ diameter pushrods were made by Trend. These feature 0.080″ wall thickness and are manufactured using chromoly tubing. I ordered specific lengths for intake and exhaust locations.
Trend laser-prints each pushrod with length and wall thickness information. Our intake pushrods measure 9.215″ BOC and our exhaust pushrods measure 9.270″ BOC. Rather than offering pushrods in only increments of 0.050″, etc., Trend will make each pushrod to your exact requirements. Their turnaround time was incredible. I phone-ordered the pushrods on a Wednesday and I received them on Friday of the same week.
CHECKING PISTON TO VALVE AND HEAD CLEARANCE
Note: I checked our piston to head and piston to valve clearance by applying modeling clay to a piston dome, installing a head with no head gasket, and installing a rocker shaft assembly, setting valve lash at zero. Using a pair of test pushrods, I rotated the crank twice and removed the rocker assembly and cylinder head.
With no head gasket in place, our tightest piston dome to flat head quench area (where the inboard side of the flat piston dome faces the deck level of the head’s quench area) measured 0.010”. Intake valve clearance was a healthy 0.350”, and exhaust valve clearance was 0.288”. When you add the 0.040” compressed thickness of our Victor MLS head gasket, we’ll end up with a cold quench clearance of 0.050”. Connecting rod stretch at full temp and on hard throttle should be no more than 0.030”, so we’re good on quench area clearance. In short, we had no clearance contact issues at all.
CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION
With block and head decks cleaned and free of oils and surface particles, the Victor MLS (multi-layer steel) head gaskets were positioned on the block decks. Note: on the FE, the elongated water jacket ports of the gaskets must align to the block decks’ rear water jacket ports. Head gaskets are usually marked “FRONT.” Some gaskets require flipping upside-down for one side (with the front mark remaining at the front of the block). The Victors (P/N 5959SC) feature only one large water jacket port on each gasket, so it’s a no-brainer when it comes to gasket orientation.
With the cast iron Ford medium-riser heads in place on the decks, I installed a set of ARP cylinder head bolts P/N 155-3601, with ARP moly applied both under each bolt head and on the threads. The torque specification provided by ARP notes a final value of 95 ft-lbs when using their moly lube; or 130 ft-lbs if using 30W oil. Head bolt tightening should be accomplished in three equal steps. I started at 32 ft-lbs, followed by 62 ft-lbs and ending with 95 ft-lbs. The tightening pattern I used started at the center and moved outboard from center in a spiral pattern. Note: The ARP hardened washers supplied with the bolt kit feature a chamfer on one side of the I.D. The chamfer must face the bolt head to clear the small radius that exists under the bolt head.
OUR PRODUCT SOURCES
ARP
1863 Eastman Ave.
Ventura, CA 93003
800-826-3045
COMP CAMS
3406 Democrat Rd.
Memphis, TN 38118
800-999-0853
DIAMOND RACING PRODUCTS
23003 Diamond Dr.
Clinton Twp., MI 48035
877-552-2112
GOODSON TOOLS & SUPPLIES
156 Galewski Dr.
Winona, MN 55987
800-533-8010
GRESSMAN POWERSPORTS
904 Lime St.
Fremont, OH 43420
419-355-8980
LEVEL PERFORMANCE
2251 Napoleon Rd.
Fremont, OH 43420
419-334-9470
MAHLE-CLEVITE, INC.
1350 Eisenhower Place
Ann Arbor, MI 48108-3282
800-338-8786
MELLING SELECT PERFORMANCE
P.O. Box 1188
Jackson, MI 49204
517-787-8172
MILODON
2250 Agate Court
Simi Valley, CA 93065
805-577-5950
PRW INDUSTRIES, INC.
193 West Orangethorpe Ave.
Placentia, CA 92870
714-792-1000
SCAT ENTERPRISES, INC.
1400 Kingsdale Ave.
Redondo Beach, CA 90278-3983
310-370-5501
SUMMIT RACING
P.O. Box 909
Akron, OH 44309-0909
800-230-3030
TREND PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS
23444 Schoenherr
Warren, MI 48089
810-447-0400
Tags: CAMSHAFT, CYLINDER HEAD, FORD FE, PROJECT ENGINES, VALVETRAIN
