I opted to install the crank gear at the zero timing mark, but this gear allows adjustment +/- 4 degrees.
Our timing chain setup installed.
With No. 1 rod pin at TDC, the timing dot on the cam gear is at 6 o’clock, and the ) mark on the crank gear is at 12 o’clock. Notice the @2 o’clock position of the crank snout key.
A GM timing chain damper installs with two 8mm bolts.
The chain damper serves as a rub-block to reduce chain harmonics.
The timing chain setup included an oil pump drive adapter gear. This wide-toothed gear inserts into the oil pump’s drive gear. The key slot in the adapter engages to the crank’s key.
Because of the thickness of the Scoggin-Dickey timing chain setup, two spacer plates must be installed between the block and oil pump for chain clearance. Be sure to apply sealant to both sides of the block-left spacer.
The oil control plunger installs at the lower left of the block with the O-ring end facing the rear of the block.
Here the oil plunger is fully installed flush with the block.
The rear engine cover requires a metal gasket with a pre-applied sealant bead. We used the gasket from the MAHLE Victor gasket set.
The rear cover is first lightly positioned with the rear seal properly seated onto the crank flange. I rotated the crank a bit to make sure that the sealing surface was concentric.
Before fully tightening the rear cover bolts, I also placed a straightedge across the bottom of the cover and the adjacent pan rails to make sure that the plate was positioned correctly. The ARP 12-point stainless bolts were then tightened to 18 lbs./ft.
During my file-fitting checks of the top and second piston rings, I used Summit Racing’s ring squaring tool. This little guy is an anodized aluminum piece that’s adjustable for bore diameter. A lower flange pushes the ring into the bore about a half-inch and allows you to achieve ring squareness in a heartbeat.
I file-fitted our rings using Summit Racing’s diamond-wheel ring filer. This is a very fast little grinder that gets the job done quickly while achieving a square cut. After file-fitting, I simply deburred the freshly ground edges with a small file.
Here our rods, caps, bearings, pistons, pins and rings are organized on our Lista benchtop. Notice the cool towel holder? That’s Goodson’s 300-MPH towel holder, made using aluminum rods that were actually used in Top Fuel engines. The little race slicks even feature the Goodson name. I couldn’t resist.
Our rod caps were test-torqued and loosened on our GearHead Tools rod vise.
Once the rod bolts were backed off, I split the caps off using GearHead Tools’ rod splitter. This beats the heck out of holding a rod upside-down and tapping the bolt heads with a mallet.
Tags: CONNECTING ROD, CRANK GEAR, CRANKSHAFT, ENGINE ASSEMBLY, FRONT COVER, GEARHEAD TOOLS, GOODSON, LS, LS2, LUNATI, MELLING, OIL PUMP, PROJECT ENGINE, REAR COVER, RING FILING, RING GAP, RINGS, ROD SPLITTER, ROD VISE, SCOGGIN DICKEY, TIMING, TRICK FLOW