Cash for clunkers? On one hand, the new government-imposed program allows consumers up to a $4500 credit for trade-in of an older vehicle toward the purchase of a new ?more fuel efficient” vehicle. Sounds like a nice idea. It’s already helped to boost new-vehicle sales, which si great for the struggling car dealers. This program demands that dealers kill the engine of the trade-in vehicle by pouring a mix of nasty chemicals into the crankcase and running the engine “until it’s ruined.” Then the entire vehicle goes to the crusher, in order to reclaim materials (metals, plastics, etc.). Environmentally sound, right?

On the other hand, all of the components on the old vehicle are gone forever…cores for remanufacturing, used replacement parts that boneyards can sell to low-budget consumers, and depending on the specific components, parts that street rodders or customizers might want for a project build. This places a financial hurt on automotive recylcing businesses (boneyards) and at the very least, inconveniences would-be used parts consumers. The program will likely also drive up the cost of used parts overall.

While we all want to help the car industry survive and we’re all concerned about conserving natural resources (oil/fuel), in my opinion this program sucks, only because it requires trade-in vehicles to be crushed and lost forever. Another example of your tax dollars at work.

BUILDING A STROKER 427 FE

After salvaging an original, well-worn 1966 Ford 427 side-oiler block, we begin to build a 485-cube big-dog. Bigger bore and longer stroke…whoof whoof!

by Mike Mavrigian

all photos by author

ENGINE HISTORY/GENERAL INFO

The Ford 427 “side oiler” motor was produced from 1963 through 1967, and was used in a variety of automotive performance and marine applications, most notably in the Ford/Shelby 427 AC Cobra. While the “side oiler” has always enjoyed a cult following among Ford types, interest in this motor is currently at an all-time high, apparently due to a strong tide of Cobra kit car builds. Given this renewed interest, we thought it would be fun to take a close look at this motor from both a restoration standpoint as well as an “upgrade” approach to increase power and drivability for today’s performance street scene.

The original FE iron motors were not light, weighing in at a hefty 650 lbs. Of course, ours will be considerably lighter, since we’re using aluminum heads, intake manifold and water pump. Unlike the 428 engines, the 427 is internally balanced. The 427 FE side oiler also features cross-bolted main caps to provide added rigidity for the main caps, primarily for durability. Screw-in block plugs (instead of interference-fit “freeze” plugs are also used. The “side oiler” FE block is so-named because it features oil feed to the main bearings directly from a large oil gallery that runs along the bottom left side of the block. Oil enters the passage from the oil filter housing near the front of the block. Drilled passages intersect the main gallery to feed oil to the main and cam bearings at each main web (pipe caps are used to cap-off the drillings). An oil pressure relief valve is located inside the rear of the block along the left side. The passage for this valve and for the main gallery is plugged on the block’s rear face.

Because of manufacturing tolerances in the ’60s, the main cap side spacers are individually fitted and labeled. The second main cap’s spacers are marked 2L and 2R (indicating right or left side), the third cap’s spacers are marked 3L and 3R, etc. Service replacements for these spacers were originally available in thicknesses of 0.3767″, 0.3750″ and 0.3733″ for selective fitting. While it may be necessary to align hone any block during a complete rebuild, if the original spacers have been lost or replaced, it is absolutely mandatory to align the main bores to assure correct centerline. If new spacers are purchased or made, each needs to be labeled for location. It is absolutely critical that all spacers are positioned in the same locations during final assembly as they were located during main bore alignment correction. Don’t mix up the spacers! I know that it may sound elementary to mention this, but remember that when the block is upside-down on a stand, and when you’re standing at the block rear, the right side will be on your left and the left side will be on your right. Just remember that the “driver” side is the block’s left side and the “passenger” side is the block’s right side. Mistakes can happen, especially if you’re in a rush or distracted. It’s best to label (with a marker) the left and right block pan rails to help avoid accidental side-to-side swaps of the main cap spacers.

OUR STROKER BUILD

Whenever you’re planning a “427″ derivative build, you have two choices concerning the block…you can hunt and find a salvageable OE iron block, or you can ante-up and buy a new iron or aluminum Genesis block. The Genesis blocks are outstanding pieces, and are well worth the approximate $3500 (iron) to $5000 (alloy) asking prices. However, if you get lucky and stumble across an OE block at a good price (and one that hasn’t been blown apart in its past life), using the vintage block is certainly viable. We located a 1966 block that showed no signs of having been scattered, so we went with it. However, in my opinion, since good old blocks are becoming increasingly hard to find at under $3000, the best route is to use a new Genesis block. The new block features thicker walls and deck, and allows you to shave the deck to your liking and to finish cylinder and lifter bores to accommodate your choices, rather than being forced to save a 43-year-old casting.

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NEW VORTEC HEADS FOR 69-90 CHEVY 5.7L

EngineQuest^® (EQ^®) has introduced two new Vortec cylinder heads to upgrade ’69-’90 350 Chevy 5.7L engines.  Given the proven performance of the EngineQuest (EQ) Chevy Vortec ’96-’02 head (EQ Part #CH350C), EQ has expanded this version to earlier 350 applications.

Made from the highest grade cast iron, the CH350E (EQ Part #CC170BA) replacement cylinder head comes with a heart-shaped 64cc Vortec style combustion chamber, a 170cc intake runner volume, ’69-’86 intake bolt pattern and features center bolt valve cover mounting holes.  The CH350F (EQ Part #CC170BA2) has the same features as the CH350E but includes perimeter bolt valve cover mounting holes.

Both the CH350E/F Vortec cylinder heads allow engine builders to re-use existing, stock, chrome and cast aluminum intakes and valve covers while receiving the benefit of the latest chamber design for improved airflow.

Utilizing flow cast technology, these high performance cylinder heads improve on the original design with a thicker deck for added strength, Dura-Bond exhaust seats for greater resistance to cracking, and a redesigned water flow system for improved thermal conductivity.  With CNC machined guides and seats, a superior port finish for increased flow and a three angle valve finish, EQ’s cylinder heads offer the best of both worlds – OE fit and improved performance.

HIGH VOLTAGE KICK FOR THE FE

Performance Distributors is now offering the powerful and reliable D.U.I.-Davis Unified Ignition for the Ford “FE” engines.

The DUI can help you improve your fuel economy as each unit is calibrated on a distributor machine with the proper mechanical and vacuum advance for your engine. The resulting smoother rate of burn will usually improve your mileage an average of 2 to 3 mpg. Your advance curve

can be calibrated for any level of octane, from 87-93, allowing you to optimize your performance while minimizing your gas budget. The precise advance curve also eliminates engine damaging detonation.

This is a one-piece ignition system for Fords. The 50,000 volt coil and high output Dyna-Module mount inside the distributor. One-wire hook-up eliminates all the messy wiring found on stock systems. The coil and module are virtually water, mud, and vibration proof because they are inside the distributor. Wider spark plug gaps enhance driveability and plug life. The D.U.I. is truly a drop-in unit!

DOUBLE BARREL RACE CARB

Demon competition 2-barrel carburetors utilize the same well-known features of 4-barrel Demons, including contoured air entries with free-flowing choke tower, smooth venturi bores, billet metering blocks, large capacity float bowl with sight window and billet baseplate with integral throttle stop. Both 350 and 500 cfm models are available with either fixed or removable sleeve (RS) venturii and are ideal for late-model classes that allow any 350 or 500 cfm two-barrel carburetor. With RS models, it is now possible to quickly change carburetor size to meet varying track conditions, and the size of the carburetor can even be changed to match a different engine combination without buying a new carburetor. 500 cfm fixed venturi models are offered in both gasoline and alcohol versions.

COMPRESSION RATIO METER AIN’T JUST WHISTLIN’ DIXIE

The WHISTLER from Katech Inc. is an electronic device that instantly determines the compression ratio of virtually any engine to within a tenth of a point.
“The WHISTLER is easy to use,” said Caleb Newman, director of aftermarket operations, Katech Performance.  “Just remove a spark plug and screw the WHISTLER adapter in its place.  Then enter the number of cylinders, CID and temperature of the engine.  Finally, bring the engine to TDC (top dead center) and the unit will display the compression ratio.”
Also required to use the WHISTLER is a low volume air source and 120Volt AC supply.
“Sanctioning bodies use the WHISTLER to enforce compression ratio rules without tearing the engine down,” Newman added.  “It’s a great tool for the most serious engine shops and racers.”
The WHISTLER works with four-, six- and eight-cylinder engines ranging from six to 600 cubic inches with a temperature range of 30° to 200°F.
Included with the unit are:
*  FN, BN, BL, J and 18mm spark plug adapters (12mm motorcycle available)
*  Verification bottle (to check the calibration of the unit at any time)
*  Easy-to-understand instruction sheet

The WHISTLER sells for $2,095 and can be purchased by calling Katech Inc. at 866-KATECH1.

THE CUMMINS GETS THRASHED

Wilson Intake Manifolds has expanded its repertoire and announced an amazing new intake system for all 5.9 liter common-rail Cummins engines from 2003- mid 2007.

Depending upon the state of tune, the Thrasher can generate in excess of 300 extra ft-lb of torque, or with lighter throttle use, the equivalent in fuel savings.

In contrast with the OEM arrangement, this new induction system provides greater equality of air-fuel distribution, especially in the cruise zone of 2,000 to 2,250 rpm.  As a result, the Thrasher generates not only amazing gains in both torque and fuel economy but also improves horsepower output, lowers exhaust gas temperatures, reduces exhaust emissions (less smoke), and improves drivability and turbo lag.

The greater the power improvements made to this engine, the greater the performance or economy benefits of the Thrasher.  In simple terms, the Thrasher requires less accelerator pedal action to pull, tow, or cruise; therefore, it uses less fuel.

The Wilson Thrasher kit contains a cast alloy elbow, billet baseplate, stainless/Viton rubber gasket, and all necessary fasteners.  Installation takes about two hours.

TIPS FROM ENGINE BUILDERS

NOT JUST FOR WHEELS

I’ve always looked for more efficient ways to clean cylinder bores on my builds. There is no such thing as “too clean.” Recently I’ve looked at a foam ball that’s designed for polishing custom wheels, and found that when loaded up with liquid detergent it works quite well. These are also available in a cloth material.

George Huff

GH Engine Works

Glendale, AZ

A TACKY IDEA

In building these sometimes very high compression, high-performance drag racing engines, probably the most important mating surfaces that involve a gasket are the cylinder head-to-block deck areas. After machine work and short block assembly, I want these surfaces perfectly clean. The use of non-residue chemicals like brake parts cleaner is fine, but red rags and blue shop towels often leave a lot of lint. Maybe it’s not harmful, but I don’t like it. The solution is an automobile painter’s tack cloth. Used lightly, this will leave nothing on an oil-free surface.

Jim Ferguson

Wildhorse Racing

Conifer, CO

WANNA BE A STAR?

A neat and easy way to stake press-in oil galley plugs is to use a star drill. These are chisels normally used for making holes in concrete. They feature 4 points on the end that are spaced evenly apart and are angled just right for staking oil galley plugs. It will stake the edges of the plug 4 times with just one strike of the hammer and looks much more professional that creating several random stakes with a traditional chisel. These star drills are available at most hardware or home improvement stores, and one size should fit almost all plugs. They are not very expensive and will probably last a lifetime.

Dan Matton

D and D Auto Machine

Bloomington, MN

MOPAR DISTRIBUTOR GEAR BUSHING POP

The bigblock (383-400-440) Mopar distributor gear drive bushing needs to be replaced during any major rebuild. It’s very hard to drive this out through the oil pump drive shaft tunnel. I found is easy to tap the bushing with a ¼ x 18 NPT tap, and insert a ¼ x 18 NPT pipe plug. The bushing can then be driven out from the oil pump drive shaft tunnel with a ¼” metal rod. If the bushing breaks in half, just re-tap the remaining part of the bushing and repeat the process. The bushing can be easily removed using this method.

Barry Kremling

Performance Tune-Up & Auto Parts

Gonzales, TX

MAIN CAP CATCH-UP TRICK

Occasionally, when finish line honing billet main caps after installation and boring, you may get one or two that hone a little slower than the rest. This is common with billet inner and stock outer caps. To get them to catch up, simply back off the stone pressure and slide a 4″ section of backed or “hook-it” type 220 grit sandpaper over the stone section on the mandrel. Next, step the cutting pressure back up and hone the cap for a few strokes. This will remove 0.0005″ real quick and straight, without removing any material from the remaining caps. Finally, remove the paper, re-adjust the stone pressure and final hone the remainder of the material from all of the caps to finish.

This is a lot easier and more accurate than un-torquing the caps and running the mandrel out of the block to try to balance the metal removal evenly from main to main.

Ron Flood

Cedar Machine Service

North Branch, MN

OUR 2008 GRAND PRIZE WINNER: BOB TROISE

As you know, in the beginning of the year, we choose what we feel is the best overall Tech Solution published during the previous year. I’m pleased to announce that the Grand Prize winner for 2008 is Bob Troise of Troise Performance in Baldwin, NY.

Bob Troise, next to one of his most recent race engines, in his Baldwin, NY shop.

It’s always difficult to narrow the selection down to just one published submission, but Bob’s tip regarding controlling bounce while using lengthy carbide cutters caught our attention. Following is a reprint of his tip that appeared in the May/June 2008 issue of Precision Engine, followed by a brief bio, supplied by Bob.

Our congratulations to Bob for his winning tip.

Courtesy the folks at MAHLE, Bob wins $500 in MAHLE product and $500 in merchandise. Our thanks to MAHLE for supporting the Tech Solutions column.

BOB TROISE

TROISE PERFORMANCE

1830 ROCKVILLE DR.

BALDWIN, NY 11510

516-867-1698

FOLLOWING IS HIS TIP, PUBLISHED IN PRECISION ENGINE;S MAY/JUNE 2008 ISSUE…

BOUNCE CONTROL

Cylinder head porting requires the use of various length (2″ – 6″) ¼” shank HSS or carbide cutters to perform the necessary job. The longer cutters sometimes start to bounce around inside the port or chamber and are hard to control while holding the grinder. I cut a piece of 5/16″ rubber fuel line, 2 ¾” long and slip it onto the cutter shank before I place the cutter into the grinder’s chuck. I lubricate the cutter shank with WD40 so the hose does not grab the cutter. Then I’m able to slide the hose closer to the cutter tip while I’m porting for greater control and no unwanted bounce in the port. Try it. You’ll like it.

Bob Troise

Troise Performance

Baldwin, NY

BOB’S BACKGROUND, IN HIS OWN WORDS….

As the owner of a small shop located on Long island in Baldwin, New York, I’ve been involved in motorsports my whole life. Working on and developing high performance engines has been my main focus. I have a degree in mechanical technology that has been useful in understanding the workings of various engine configurations. Also, I’ve completed several welding courses in Mig and Tig and continue to develop my welding skills. My first love was the air cooled engines of the Corvair, VW and Porsches. They still remain my most worked-on engines. To produce high horsepower from smaller engines has always driven me to innovate. My two main focus points have always been perfect balance and cylinder sealing of the engine. As well as working in my own shop, I also have worked at B&B Automotive in Lybroook, NY, where engine dyno and flow bench services are always available. Being a small shop, I can dedicate the time and energy necessary to build a winning combination.

I’m a family man with two grown children. I enjoy car shows, drag racing, fishing and gun shows. My wife Katey outs up with all of my antics, bless her soul.

Precision Engine is a must-read for anyone involved in the high performance engine industry. The many tips and procedures provided in the articles are priceless. There is no other magazine that is as thorough and clear as Precision Engine. Mike goes through each process and provides all the vendors that allows any experienced engine builder to replicate the featured engine project. I’m flattered to have my tech tip chosen to share advice with other readers.

Bob Troise

COMPACTED GRAPHITE ENGINE BLOCKS

These blocks offer greater strength and stability, but be aware of the machining concerns.

by Mike Mavrigian

CGI engine blocks offer greater strength and superior stability with no weight penalty. In theory, a CGI block can be produced at near-aluminum-weight while maintaining needed strength. One benefit is that cylinder walls can be made thinner without sacrificing stability or strength. (photo courtesy Makino)

World Products is about to introduce a 426 Hemi block cast in CGI material. (photo courtesy World Products)

WHAT IS CGI?

CGI, or Compacted Graphite Iron, features a molecular makeup that creates a tightly-interconnected graphite during the casting process. CGI casts much like gray iron, but offers more hardness, more fatigue strength, superior ductility and greater tensile strength…sort of a happy medium between gray iron and ductile iron. The compacted graphite molecular shape, often referred to as “semi-nodular,” makes it less brittle and more stable than gray iron.
From a molecular standpoint, the basic difference between gray iron and compacted graphite iron lies in the graphite shape. The makeup of the graphite mix in CGI is more tightly compacted and “interwoven” (the molecular structure is similar to a bunch of tiny worms that are interlaced in a tight matrix). Gray iron’s makeup features graphite that’s similar to a mix of odd-shaped, larger and more widely dispersed flakes. Once you realize this difference, it’s not difficult to understand why CGI offers greater strength and ductility.
CGI is up to 75% stronger than gray iron. Although relatively “new” in the automotive field, CGI was actually conceived and patented way back in 1949, but its use was delayed until production manufacturing and machining techniques were developed to handle this stuff. Although not as strong as ductile iron, CGI is 500% more fatigue resistant than aluminum and 200% as resistant to fatigue compared with gray iron. In other words, it’s ideal for racing engine blocks that need to withstand tremendous pressures and thermal levels. Also, because of its increased strength, a block can be machined to reduce weight by as much as 22% compared with gray iron, if the builder so chooses.
By the way, in terms of producing the block castings, CGI is only slightly higher in cost per pound than conventional gray iron, with very similar casting techniques, so raw CGI blocks shouldn’t carry a big cost penalty. When you compare the cost difference (in base material) between aluminum and CGI, compacted graphite iron becomes even more enticing when you consider that CGI is more fatigue resistant at extreme temperatures.
In slang terms, CGI is often referred to as the “titanium” of cast iron because of its additional strength and rigidity without the detriment of added weight.
CGI blocks offer greater stability and strength, which is of particular benefit in engines that produce high cylinder pressures. CGI blocks are very popular in Pro Stock and NASCAR Cup applications. The blocks are more stable and offer much lower wear characteristics. Several OEMs are using CGI for their blocks. For example, Audi V8 diesel blocks are cast from CGI, and since the material has such excellent strength characteristics, the blocks are actually cast in place as part of the block, then laser-etched and fractured off to achieve a perfect cap-to-block fit (the same approach used in powder metal rods with fractured caps). Other OEMs (to name but a few) currently using CGI for their engine blocks include BMW, Jaguar, Rolls-Royce, GM/Opel, Suzuki and Aston Martin.
The CGI 5.8L blocks used in Toyota’s NASCAR truck program, as another example, weigh a mere 195 lbs. and feature 3mm-thick cylinder walls.
In theory, a CGI block can be final-produced to a lighter overall weight than an equal-sized aluminum block with equal strength/density (although it’s suspected that not many builders take advantage of this for fear of giving up the rigidity factor).

COMPARATIVE MECHANICAL PROPERTIES

To gain an understanding of the differences in attributes between gray cast iron, CGI and ductile iron, the list shown here (for illustration purposes) assigns CGI a 100% value. The percentages shown for gray iron and ductile iron enable us to better understand how CGI compares to the other two types of iron. For instance, when looking at fatigue strength, gray is only 55% as strong as CGI, while ductile iron is stronger than CGI. Gray iron is only 86% as hard as CGI, while ductile iron is slightly harder than CGI.

MACHINING CGI

Engine blocks made of compacted graphite iron present their own unique challenges in terms of machining. In a nutshell, you need to run at half of your normal cutting speed and half of your normal feed rate. Also, CGI is both abrasive and “gummy” and requires the use of CBN tooling.
According to Sunnen’s engineering whiz Tim Meara, CGI blocks tend to hone more like steel than gray iron. It’s a much tougher material. Tim noted that CBN tooling was actually developed to handle CGI. If traditional stones are used for honing, a fairly course 150-grit stone is needed, yet soft to allow free-cutting because the material is so much harder than gray iron. With abrasive stones, you’ll see a smoother finish (usually 3 to 5 points smoother) than you would with gray iron. If you use diamond tooling for honing, you’ll notice very little difference in the final finish. CBN inserts must be used for boring and decking procedures.
If tooling and tool operation technique is correct, CGI machines extremely well. Since the compacted graphite iron makeup is not as brittle as that of gray cast iron (tight matrix instead of big molecular flakes), the material doesn’t fracture and tear as tooling begins its attack and as pressure is added (compared with gray iron). This means a more consistent machining operation and, in theory, more consistent and more tightly held results in terms of tolerance. In this regard, CGI machines more closely to the characteristics of steel.
However, CGI material is very abrasive, so if you’re drilling or tapping, it will wear your drills and taps faster (although drills are being developed specifically for CGI to reduce tool wear).
As we keep mentioning, CGI is a very hard material, so in general, all speeds and feed rates will essentially be cut in half, compared with the speeds and feeds normally used with gray iron.
World Products’ Skip Gladstone noted that CGI machining requires more of a tooling positive rake, compared with a negative rake on gray iron or nodular iron. Skip noted that World Products plans to introduce a CGI 426 Hemi block in the near future (possibly in late 2007). Several aftermarket block manufacturers are using or plan to use CGI castings, so you really should get together with your machine equipment suppliers to obtain proper tooling and procedural advice before you begin machining these blocks.
CGI is said to grind, cut and hone very well, but features a much greater amount of graphite content in the cutting swarf. Because of the reduced cutting time, CGI can take 2-3 times longer to machine compared with gray iron.
Basically, CGI is very speed sensitive. If you run your cutters too fast, you’ll wear out your tooling much faster.

Microscopic view of gray iron. Note the big “flake” structure. (courtesy Atlas Foundry)

Microscopic view of CGI. The tighter intertwined “worm” makeup features a closer-compacted grain structure which provides increased hardness, yet increased ductility.
(photo courtesy Atlas Foundry)

Ductile iron. Tighter matrix with random nodules. CGI is tougher than gray cast, but not as tough as ductile iron. CGI is a great medium between the two extremes.
(photo courtesy Atlas Foundry)

This is a super-closeup of a micro view comparing gray iron (left) and CGI (right). The CGI matrix features more “rounded” elements that are compacted closer together and wrapped together, as opposed to the large wafer/flakes in gray iron.
(courtesy Brazilian Society of Mechanical Sciences)

CBN cutters are definitely required for any boring, milling or cutting operations on a CGI block. (photo courtesy Makino)

Many OEMs are now using, or are planning to use, CGI for their engine blocks in order to reduce weight, maintain needed strength, and to save cost (compared with using aluminum). (photo courtesy Makino)

Here’s a CGI V8 block for BMW’s 7-series. (photo courtesy Makino)

Since CGI is stronger and more stable than gray iron, a CGI block can be bored to greater displacement oversize while maintaining the strength to get the job done. Want bigger bores without adding more block weight? CGI is one way to go. (photo courtesy World Products)

Block boring with newly-developed helical boring tool from Makino. (photo courtesy Makino)

Block boring with CBN cutters.
(photo courtesy Makino)

CV PRODUCTS ANNOUNCEMENT

Entering their third decade as the racer’s ultimate resource, CV Products Inc. has announced several new initiatives and is celebrating many notable achievements during 2008. Part of a continuing effort to better serve their customers, CV Products new programs firmly focus on providing greater convenience, efficiency and service.

A completely reorganized, full color master catalog has been sorted by product category to make finding the right part faster and easier than ever before.

Beginning in Mid-December, a completely restructured and redesigned CVProducts.com will enable customers to more easily shop online for race products. Through their online CV account, customers can now quickly shop for the finest racing components in the industry and manage their account, all in one place.

Phone customers can also expect to see the benefits of these new initiatives. An innovative new phone system will now greet CV Products customers looking to place an order or receive technical support.  Customers can expect even faster response times and easier ordering by directly connecting to their favorite CV sales representative.

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Yep, the ugly guy in the nomex suit is Precision Engine editor Mike Mavrigian. With the passage of time, he’s even less attractive today.

I recently spent a few hours trying to clean my office, and came across an old photo that sparked some humorous memories.

Once upon a time (back in 1979), I had the opportunity to “co-drive” in the Baja 1000 desert off-road race, from Ensenada to LaPaz, on the Baja peninsula in northwestern Mexico. To make a long story short, we only ran about 7 miles before the car dropped and the team gave up. Now for the long version.

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Tips for avoiding things that can bite you

By John Mummert

In disassembling Y-Block core engines, I have noted a number of common mistakes that are made during the assembly of Y-Blocks during rebuild. Take care to avoid these mistakes.

HEAD BOLTS

There appear to be two different length head bolts in a Y-Block engine-five short bolts near the spark plugs and five longer bolts under the rocker arms. It’s true that the five short bolts near the spark plugs are identical, but the five under the rockers are not the same. Two of these bolts are slightly longer and are installed at the outer ends of the head where the alignment dowels are located. Lay all 10 longer bolts (five per bank) next to each other and you should find four longer and six that are about 1/4″ shorter. Installing the longer bolts in the center three holes can cause them to bottom in the block, which can result in a blown head gasket.

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The drawer design, gauge and high-quality roller bearings provide drawer movement that is effortless and extremely smooth.

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